- suspension if you havnt done anything to that.shocks and springs if on a budget or coilovers if you got the coin.and a rear swaybar and asr brace.
- 4.7 final drive ratio,reduces your top speed (your never gona get to top speed anyway really) and makes your revs sit higher on the highway etc.....but its the cheapest way to gain torque and acceleration.
- cams and ecu,i recommend hondata s200, and type r cams are good bang for buck.....(s100 ecu is very restrictive in who can tune it,as i found out, s200 you can plug any laptop into)
(s100 ecu is very restrictive in who can tune it,as i found out, s200 you can plug any laptop into)
S200 is the same as the S100,u still need chip burner,romultor,etc to tune it.
S200 is rather redundant now with the S300 being available.
At the end of the day,u'll pay about $400 more going from S100 to S300,if u plan on doing heaps of mods & tuning after every mod then go the S300,as its slightly easier & faster to tune,so u'll get the $400 back.
If you do the gbox might as well get a better clutch & lighten flywheel while your there, same price for labour.
The ECU is only as good as the tuner. You will always make abit more power with the aftermarket ECU, as the factory ECU is designed to be conservative, for the slight differences in different engines.
How much you make will depend on the amount of mods and condition of your engine.
If i were you i would run the stock ECU and wait until you have more mods before changing ECUs. That way you only pay once for the tune, instead of retuning for each new mod you do.
s300 ftw thats speaking from experience.... s100 and s200 yu will end up paying more then what you spend on the s300 because you will need to pay alot more to retune then with the s300 because with the s300 its as simple as pluging it into the laptop and the software is free...
next mods= cams+cam gears+s300 tuned+ 4.9 final drive
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