DIY: Tranny removal and Input Shaft Bearing change

[wynode]

Changing the ISB

22. With the input shaft taped up, place the tranny with the input shaft facing downwards, and make sure you place it on two blocks of wood in order to prevent damaging the input shaft.

23. Undo the 32mm sealing bolt using a 3/8inch drive.



24. Unscrew and remove the backup light switch and then loosen the transmission housing attaching bolts in a criss cross pattern and remove them.






25. Use a wedge or a hammer to seperate the transmission housing from the clutch housing (note you will not be able to remove the transmission housing completely till you get the snap ring out in the next step).





26. Expand the snap ring on the countershaft bearing using either some snap ring pliers or conventional pliers. NOTE: that this part is very tricky and can be quite time consuming!! You have to yank the case up and shimmy it while expanding the snap ring, in order to get it out of the groove and off the bearing!



27. Once you get the snap ring out, the tranny housing case should lift off! The reason you have to move it around is also because the mainshaft bearing sits in the transmission housing.

28. To get to the ISB, we need to lift out the shift fork assemblies and the gearsets. First undo the reverse shift holder by taking the two bolts holding it down. Then lift the reverse idler shaft straight up and take out the reverse idler gear.

Reverse shift holder:


Reverse idler shaft and gear seen at the bottom of the pic:


29. Then undo the linterlock guide bolt (hex key required) found on the clutch housing side. Then undo the Shift Arm B Attaching bolt and washer on top of the interlock.

Interlock guide bolt removed:


Shift Arm B attaching bolt and washer:


30. You can now pull the shift fork assemblies and gearsets straight out of the tranny. Just grab the mainshaft and countershaft assemblies cleanly by the gears (not the shycho hub/color) and lift straight up. A bit of wiggling may be required.

31. The differential can be removed by lifting it straight out of the clutch housing.

From the top - Reverse Idler gear, Reverse shift holder, Reverse idler gear shaft, Differnetial and mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies.


32. Getting the ISB out is pretty easy. Just go in through the clutch housing side and tap the ISB out using a long extension and 5/8" socket. If you have trouble, just heat up the area around the ISB with a hair dryer.

33. Take out the oil seal using a flat head screwdriver.



34. Put a new oil seal in (lube it up a bit with some oil before putting it in), then put the new ISB in and tap it down with even force. I put mine in the freezer for around 10 mins so it would go down easier! Ohh......and the trusty stock honda shift knob does still have a use!



35. I also noticed my countershaft needle bearing was sitting out of its seat, so I just tapped it back in.

Before:


After:


36. Once you have changed the bearings, I suggest you take out the 28mm plug bolt and 1st/2nd select spring so that you can turn the interlock in order to align it with the base of the shift forks.

Plug bolt @ base of picture:


37. Now lower the mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies and once the mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies are in, install the plug bolt (54Nm) and 1st/2nd select spring (put some liquid gasket on the threads of the plug bolt). Then install the shift Arm B attaching bolt+washer (31Nm) and make sure the interlock is lined up correctly with the base of the shift forks.

38. After you do this, ensure that the interlock is aligned up properly with the interlock guide bolt and tighten it (39Nm). If you don't, you will not only damage the interlock when you put the interlock guide bolt back in, but also be locked out of some gears.

The pic below shows the correct alignment for the interlock guide bolt (on either side of the hole are the sides of the interlock and in the middle is the shift arm shaft).

Correct alignment:


39. Clean off any old sealant from the mating surfaces of the clutch/tranny housing and apply a new layer of liquid gasket.

Ben hard at it with the sealant!!!


40. Lower the tranny housing casing and expand the snap ring so that it sits in the groove of the countershaft bearing and also in the groove of the tranny housing casing. Once you get the snap ring half way in the groove, try turning the tranny on it side so the weight of the gearsets will pull the snap ring into its groove (kinda hard to expain, but you'll know when its in!)

41. Torque all the tranny housing bolts in a criss-cross even pattern to 27Nm (tighten them evenly first, then torque them after that).

42. Screw the backup light switch back up again.

43. Put some liquid gasket on the 32mm sealing bolt and torque it up to 25Nm.

44. Puting the tranny back in is pretty much the reverse of taking it out so just take your time and don't rush things.

45. Filing up the gearbox oil can be done either via the fill hole, or by taking out the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). There is ONLY 1 BOLT holding it in and it's a really tall bolt. Just fill it via the VSS hole till you see fluid coming out of the fill hole. My D16A8 took a bit over 2.5L.

You can see the VSS siting on the left of the pipe here:



Be very careful that you do not over tighten the VSS bolt as it will snap the bracket (trust me I did it!).


46. MAKE SURE YOU DO THE FOLLOWING when puting everything back together.

- Lube the mainshaft splines, release fork (where it contacts the release bearing, its pivot and the slave cylinder) and the release bearing insides and circular contact (where it touches the pressure plate/diaphram spring) with some high temp CV joint grease
- Lube the drive shaft/axel splines with some grease so they don't rust and are easy to take out in the future.
- Torque the castle nut on the lower ball joint to 55Nm
- Install the cotter pin on the castle nut (YOU MUST NOT SKIP THIS!)
- Tighten the 32mm hub nut to and bend the metal tab into the indent (YOU MUST NOT SKIP THIS!)

Other comments

I think i've covered most things, so reply back if I haven't..........and just take your time when you are doing this and don't rush anything

Gluck and have FUN!

PS: I would like to thank ECU-MAN, Bren, some of my other mates and the internet for all the help they gave me