got mine cut at lockmart, $25 except it took them 4 tries to get it right and even after that it was hard to put into the door and wouldnt turn in the ignition. pushing it in and taking it out a few times seems to have helped and it goes in much easier now and turns in the ignition .
only problem now is that the spring pushes the case apart
i was thinking of glueing it together but then i wont be able to replace the remote battery if it dies. any suggestions?
i have found that its not actually the spring that pushes the case apart, its more the plastic bit that is meant to hold the chip in... it just needs to filed down a bit for a perfect fit... did this and now the key is perfect fully flush....!
oh, i did that. it would be impossible to close the case if that plastic bit and the chip were in the same space.
I'm talking about a gap only at the pivot point of the key which on mine, allows for the key to wobble up and down. Pressing on either side of the pivot stops the key from being able to wobble.
ps: even with the spring out there is a little bit of wobble
Last edited by joycetick; 26-04-2008 at 12:18 AM.
Reason: additional info
I used a heat gun to "modify" the front half of the lower shell (while disassembled) which applies pressure on the case. I am waiting for dad to get home and test the key to make sure it got cut right, after hearing so many people having problems with them being cut... Either way, even without the spring the key would move up/down, but after i heated and bent the front edge of the casing, the up/down movement has been limited a lot. If i bend it much more it will create drag and might make the key hard to flip out.
EDIT : OK after reading through some stuff, i found this eBay item (i hope its OK to link to ebay items)
now while i realise that is a memory 2 key, not memory 1 (i.e 2nd driver not 1st driver) the FCC ID and the IC ID are EXACTLY the same as the stock 2008 Accord V6L my dad owns. So.... in saying that, seeing as the FCC ID and IC ID are the same, would it be correct to assume that the frequency would be the same? i don't care about the panic button, but OEM gear is always a preference over aftermarket ...
Comments? ideas?
Last edited by CoZZm0; 07-06-2008 at 02:15 PM.
Reason: added info
I decided to order the more expensive mem1 key simply because this is for my dad and he likes things to be "right" so running memory 2 all the time for him wasn't really an option (i know its a small thing to most others...)
I'll update when i get it. also i note that they are totally sold out of memory2 keys when i went to buy mine so i would assume that forumers snapped them upo, i should of held my tongue until i was sure they'd work...
hey guys, I should join this forum much earlier! Let me tell the story~
I am from sydney, I got a accord euro lux, I bought Accord 07TL key from US acura dealer ebay cost me $80 including shipping(with panic buttom), get it cut from locksmith for $40, get my dealer program the immobilizer chip in the key $100, HOWEVER, the keyless enty does NOT work with Accord euro in australia, because the frequency of our existing key is 4XXMhz instead of the switchblade key 3XXMhz.... so the only way for us to lock and unlock the car is from drivers' door....
I decided to order the more expensive mem1 key simply because this is for my dad and he likes things to be "right" so running memory 2 all the time for him wasn't really an option (i know its a small thing to most others...)
I'll update when i get it. also i note that they are totally sold out of memory2 keys when i went to buy mine so i would assume that forumers snapped them upo, i should of held my tongue until i was sure they'd work...
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