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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    integra ls
    sell the B16A, buy a B18CR. get intake/header/exhaust, aftermarket ecu with a good tune, swaybars, coilovers and good tyres.

    if he has anything left over after that (unlikely) get a recaro or two

  2. #14
    Noob crowd controller Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Car:
    Civic
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_will View Post
    sell the B16A, buy a B18CR. get intake/header/exhaust, aftermarket ecu with a good tune, swaybars, coilovers and good tyres.

    if he has anything left over after that (unlikely) get a recaro or two
    You wouldnt even be able to afford all that. The engine plus tune will run you in the ten mark if done correctly.
    See a good post? Give it a PQ point.


    Quote Originally Posted by ludecrs View Post
    They have the depreciation re-sale value of a burnt out and multi-rolled Commodore.

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    integra ls
    i dunno,

    eg http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92150

    and he might get 1000 for his b16a, so he'd have $4k left over.(assuming he provides the labour himself...)

    Would probably have to choose between coilovers and swaybars, or i/h/e

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    MY00 DC2R
    you need EK9 pedals
    the stock Ek4 one sucks
    Honda Integra DC2R natural aspired K20A

    2010 CAMS Supersprint (NSW) Type 3B champion |EC: 1:46.9280|WP: 1:07.694|Winton: 1:38.614

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hill Valley
    Car:
    DMC-12
    bore/stroke and port polish the engine
    make the final drive ratio to be even on all gears
    replace ecu with hondata s200 and get it tuned by toda
    replace cams with ek9 or toda
    get new exedy heavy duty clutch and toda lightened flywheel
    get the latest Cusco coilovers
    replace oem seats with Recarro/Sparco/Bride seats
    get 6000k hi/low hid kit
    replace the block with a b20 so he'll get a b16/b20 hybrid
    Last edited by outatime; 17-06-2008 at 01:10 PM. Reason: list edited because someone's whinging

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    integra ls
    Quote Originally Posted by outatime View Post
    make the final drive ratio to be even on all gears
    please explain

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hill Valley
    Car:
    DMC-12
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_will View Post
    please explain
    he needs a mechanic to do that. i dont know exactly what it's called but making the powerband the same on all gears so when you shift you dont lose much power or accelaration.. i think they call it 4.7 final drive ratio something like that. usually on first and second gear the engine gets louder quickly so you shift up. with a good final gear it's all even. (what's that called again ben?)
    Last edited by outatime; 16-06-2008 at 01:19 PM.

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    integra ls
    Quote Originally Posted by outatime View Post
    he needs a mechanic to do that
    i meant explain what you mean by 'make the final drive ratio to be even on all gears'

    the final drive ratio is fixed at say, 4.7. it does not change depending on what gear youre in




    still waiting on this explanation
    Last edited by Mr_will; 17-06-2008 at 08:46 AM.

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    98 EK4
    The paint is immaculate so why would he want to respray the car? Like I said he wants performance.

    The suspension he has are height/damper adjustable so I think these are good enough for the moment.

    So far it looks like there are 3 realistic options.

    Keep the B16A and build it up n/a.
    Convert to B18CR and add headers etc
    Add a turbo and build motor for strength.

  10. #22
    ok this is my opinion - im biased btw

    I would tell him to save his money for another couple of months until he has time and money to do a k-swap. totally worth it in my opinion, my swap cost me around the $13,000 mark. you can do it cheaper if you know where to look for motors but yep totally worth it

    personally...i would'nt build up the b16 N/A. good motors, but if hes just landed a really good job then he might spend 10k on the b16...and be disappointed with its power/torque - thus this might make him spend more money on another motor.

    the b18cr is a good motor, and is pretty unbeleivable performance at stock - plus with future mods can be built to be a monster boosted or crazy N/A. good idea in my opinion if he decides not to wait for a k swap.

    Adding a turbo is ok..but 10k is pretty small budget for a DECENT(IMO) turbo build. i personally would budget at least 12-13k without labour for a good turbo b16 - that being said if he has some mechanical experience he might be able to do it himself and save alot of money.

    thats my 2 cents. as i said im biased lol just depends on what he wants.

    And FYI - k20's and k24's are pretty light motors and arent that much heavier than a b series. i upgraded from a b16 to a k24 frankenstien and cannot tell the difference in handling.

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hill Valley
    Car:
    DMC-12
    is that for everything LUD35? 13k for parts and labour?

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    101 MotorCafe Performance/Tuning
    Car:
    01POV
    is the 10k for total modification of the car or just on motor goodies?

    Need to plan your stuff carefully or 10k will dissapear very quickly.
    |=TeamPOV=|=JDMYard=|=EK Squad=|=101 MotorCafe Performance Tuning=|

    EK Koni Yellows + King Spring Combo for Sale

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