so b series conversions are on par or better than d series turbo'sconversions?
good try mate any way
u will do better next time for sure good mph too
may be borrow some 15's
he needs some 15's in 4 stud 4x100 that will clear ITR front brakes.
Any thoughts ?
depends what itr brakes he has 96 spec or 98 spec
96 spec most 15 will clear as the are the same as dc2 / eg6/ etc
98 spec he will have to run 15x7 and depending on offset will need a spacer
depends what itr brakes he has 96 spec or 98 spec
96 spec most 15 will clear as the are the same as dc2 / eg6/ etc
98 spec he will have to run 15x7 and depending on offset will need a spacer
its 98 spec ~ and yup all honda rims in 4x100 even 14 inch will clear the 96 spec/eg6/ek4 brakes.
Looks like he needs some aftermarket 15's
Few things i would add (even though some may have been suggested)
*Buy some 15s and get some tyres on there with biggest profile as possible say 205 55/60. dc2 Fat 5s would be pretty good.
*Do some basic weight reduction. stuff thats easily removeable, but you still want to race your car in oem standard trim condition. So spair wheel, tools, a sub box? etc etc
* When Lauching a turbo car you actually want to lauch it spooled up as much as possible. In my experience launching at low held constant revs does not do this. Rev it agressively... then Full throttle on clutch drop. If your tyres are down to a nice low pressure you should have minimal wheel spin.
* Front damper Soft, Rear Damper Hard.
* (Might sound nooB-ish) Dont rev out your car to the point your bouceing off rev limiter, youd be surprised how much time you loose. Learn to change right before your rev cut. (assumeing your makeing your peak power close to your rev cut)
* Gear changes as quick as possibly. NA IMO doesnt really matter (As much) .. but the longer your shifts take in FI means the more pressure your looseing in your pipework. In a sence, ever time you do a slow shift, you loose all your 10psi of boost.. going back to 0psi. This means your power is going from 130wkw back to 70wkw. Then on your next gear engagement it will take a fraction of a second to build boost again. (hence going from 70wkw back to 130wkw)
* launches are most important. If you can get good launches / 60fts you would be surprised how much this improves your overall time.
Some of these things might seem small. But when lots of small percentages add up they equal something that does make a difference. Sometimes 1 - 2 seconds.
Questions
What MPH does it say on your time slip?
What do you mean your car was "dieing"
Did you make yourself launch on green? or did you take your time?
When you launched... do you actually have to wait for your boost to kick? or are you launching ON boost allready?
*** Remember you car only makes 130wkw at 10PSI... not at 0 PSI (makes 70wkw). so you want to keep it at full boost (or close to it) the WHOLE time your raceing. ie flat shifts (if your game) or quick shifts (practice) and very agressive launches (practice again).
IMO if you can Launch on boost.. rather then waiting for it... your MPH WILL get higher. And if you can put the power to the ground without breaking any traction this should bring down your 60foot. End result i believe mid to high 13.
I suppose Mr "Naturally Aspirated" a few pages back doesnt under this concept.
questions and comments welcome
Regards Lyle
Last edited by Sexc86; 26-06-2008 at 09:39 PM.
Light up with Lyle - Electrical / Communications / Instrumentation
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Originally Posted by bennjamin
I let results speak for themselves. Consistant 100mph and 14.00's is enough said for the B series brigade 
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