compression test was fine a week ago it seems..i couldn't be told if my car was doing 200 across all 4 cylinders or something...apparently i'm doing around 135-145 across all cylinders but the needle on the guage only popped 3 times..so i guess my car was
erm wtf.. should be 210-220psi... i know you said 'mechanic' but di they do it:
- warm temp
- throttle wide open
- i crank about 4-5times just to be sure...
Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
If 1 person has had bad luck with a product don’t condemn it until you yourself have tested it. Now if 10 pros have tried it and it sucked then I would trust their opinion.
yeah engine was sorta warm...been off for 10mins or so after a 5km drive..
wide open throttle? i don't think so?
the person turning the key was standing outside i think...i can't remember..i didn't know the pedal had to be floored before before...i thought the key just had to a turned with the guage screwed in...
crank 4 or 5 times? definately not 5 times
like i said needle popped 3 times or something...
i think it went something like 75 then popped to 110? then popped to ~140
..so i guess if it was cranked 5 or 6 times it would have been something like 70 > 110 > 140 > 180> 220 ?? which is what i want right? somewhere around 200+ ???
u will have to leave the car over night, a leak down test has to be done when the car is dead cold i think? or am i getting mixed up ben ?
best if warm/hot so everything is expanded and seated.
a compression test is done when HOT too
A air tool is inserted into a spark plug hole , and air pumped in and the exit place observed
as an example - air from exhaust indicates worn exhaust valves or stems , air bubbles in coolant is headgasket , air from throttle body is worn intake valves or stems etc
pulled out my pcv valve just then, still connected to the intake manifold. gave it a shake just then..
a soft shake doesn't make any rattling at all..
a slightly harder continous shake will make a tiny rattle but it's not even...it will sorta make 2 clicks, stop then click again...if you know what i mean...
for compression test, u crank until the needle stops and cant go any furthur. ie if u keep cranking and the needle does move above 200~ then ur compression for the cylinder is 200psi
pulled out my pcv valve just then, still connected to the intake manifold. gave it a shake just then..
a soft shake doesn't make any rattling at all..
a slightly harder continous shake will make a tiny rattle but it's not even...it will sorta make 2 clicks, stop then click again...if you know what i mean...
the proper way to test your PCV , is to CLAMP the rubber hose from the PCV while the engine idles.
If its fine working order it will CLICK CLICK or rattle as the engine idles. If no noise its likely clogged or failed so time to replace with a new one
i can with my one on my engine.
use a DIY stethoscope (long flat headed screwdriver) - place one end on the pipe itself or close to the pcv , and place your ear on the handle. you should be able to hear the click click
i can with my one on my engine.
use a DIY stethoscope (long flat headed screwdriver) - place one end on the pipe itself or close to the pcv , and place your ear on the handle. you should be able to hear the click click
lol the ONLY end... i'd hate to have the flathead in my hear
tried that when you first mentioned it last year.. works better with a real long one though
Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
If 1 person has had bad luck with a product don’t condemn it until you yourself have tested it. Now if 10 pros have tried it and it sucked then I would trust their opinion.
the tube going from the pcv valve is bloody hard.
can't pinch it at all with my fingers...
gave it another shake up and down..
is it meant to make a really noticable sound?
cause all mine is making is a couple of very soft 'ticks' even though i'm shaking it up and down as fast i as i can 15 times...
sounds like it's stuck or something
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