wheel alignment - toe settings

[gbang007]

yeh.dammit! anways, so my question is, do you guys think i should get a camber kit for the front or just get the toe set again to 0 front and like 1mm in at the rears and just leave it at that and rotate the tyres? i dont want to have to be rotating tyres every month but i don't mind doing it like every 5000kms or something like that if my camber isn't that bad. otherwise i will get ingalls camber kit. so many decisions - i just dont want to have to replace my tyres again. and i got good ones too this time and im a poor uni student lol

i will probably just get it aligned again but with the settings you guys said. hopefully the wear should be indifferent with the camber. Can they adjust the camber to make it worse or even it up? ie make the front left more even with the front right?

I would have asked for 0mm front toe regardless. Another tyre shop told me the same thing, if he put 0.5mm toe out at the front like I asked him to, the tyre would wear prematurely. I told him to do it and 6 months and 10000km later, the wear is even.

[dynosaur]

so , does anybody know what is the best (aftermarket) camber & toe settting for dc2r ? (Front & Rear)

(mainly for last longer the tyres)

thanks

[vinnY]

go stock if you just want good tyre wear

[gbang007]

i know camber is not adjustable but can they alter it slightly to make it more even? ie my FL-.34 and FR is -1.36 and i want it more even for more even wear

[aaronng]

i know camber is not adjustable but can they alter it slightly to make it more even? ie my FL-.34 and FR is -1.36 and i want it more even for more even wear

No camber kit, no camber adjustment. Have you considered adjusting the height of the front corners to see if it changes the camber?

[JohnL]

i know camber is not adjustable but can they alter it slightly to make it more even? ie my FL-.34 and FR is -1.36 and i want it more even for more even wear

'Not adjustable' does mean not adjustable without modification of some sort.

1° is a lot of difference side to side, has the car ever been in an accident? Short of fitting camber kits, it is possible to change the camber angle by modifying the upper wishbones by means of elongating the holes where the WB attaches to the chassis bushes (i.e. the holes in the WBs not the bushes).

The WB mounting holes can be filed with a 'rats tail' file to increase or decrease either negative or positive camber (allowing the WB to be moved in or out, in effect shortening or lengthening the WB). The degree to which the holes must be elongated to achieve X change in camber is dependant upon the distance between the upper and lower ball joints.

As an e.g., on my CB7 Accord the distance between upper and lower ball joint centres is 470mm (not an exact measurement as the locations of each ball joint centre must be estimated, which is good enough for this purpose), and the camber will change by 1° if the upper wishbone is (in effect) lengthened or shortened by 8mm.

Note that this also works for changing the caster angle, i.e. if you move either the upper or lower ball joint backward or forward by 8mm then caster will change by 1° (or very close to it), so long as the distance between upper and lower ball joints is 470mm.

Don't assume that these numbers will be the same for your car, you will need to measure the distance between ball joint centres, then you need to do some drawings to discover how much of a change in effective WB length will result in what camber angle change. Note that any angular change in the KPI angle will result in an identical change in the camber angle (KPI being the inward lean of a line drawn between upper and lower ball joints, as caster is the rearward lean).

When modifying upper WBs in this way (i.e. elongating the mounting holes), you may find that additional filing / grinding on the WB may be needed to allow clearance to the chassis bushes (or rather, the metal housings in which the bushes are housed), and possibly clearance to the chassis itself.

[55EXX]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to JohnL again.

i'd rep you but i can't. gold info again man! what alighnment setting would you advise someone to get in a civic for street and track use? camber toe and castor?

[string]

You might be able to wiggle the rear crossmember a few mm across to even out the front camber - it's highly likely that if it has ever been removed it hasn't been centred perfectly, the bolt holes are huge! Combined with moving the front crossmember you can make small adjustments to all the "hard-coded" alignment settings but it's a pain in the butt.

[gbang007]

okay i got a wheel alignment today again to 0 front toe and 1mm total rear. How come the readings from todays settings prior to the alignment being done are nowhere close to the previous alignment done two days ago? ie total rear toe was like 3mm after alignment on sat but back to something crazy like 7mm total today again. the also said a couple of my bushes need to be replaced. may that contribute to it?

[JohnL]

Wasting your time and money doing alignment with flogged out bushes. In other words, yes that's why the two alignments showed different numbers.

[mocchi]

so whats the toe, camber, caster setting on an eg? stock

[yuentinlon]

i am going to do the wheels alignment tomorow and i really want to know

is it a good setting for a stock EG with king superlow springs

front [L & R] +/- 0.00mm and 0.00mm

rear [L & R] + 0.5mm and +0.5mm

is that right ???