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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Civic GLi 1999
    with anything that is meant to resist forces acting on it (strut bars, tie bars) by adding rigidity to the chassis, it should be installed with no load.

    That's how i did it on my ek1. and the stiffer chassis was noticeable immediately.

  2. #14
    And I mounted both my front and rear tower braces with the chassis sitting on the springs, and in both cases the stiffer chassis was noticable immediately...

    Having said that, I haven't yet jacked it up and reset the mounts, so I can't say from experience whether this is better ot not...

  3. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Feverpitched View Post
    I can tell you that too much pre-load will mess up your suspension geometry, to the point that one of my previous cars would understeer through every roundabout if there was even a whiff of moisture on the road.
    What does 'too much' pre-load mean? There is either zero pre-load, partial pre-load, or full pre-load. 'Too much' preload sounds like you might have gone past zero preload into negative pre-load, i.e. the brace is actually forcing the towers apart?

    Quote Originally Posted by Feverpitched View Post
    I've heard a lot of different theories about strut bars - one person even went so far as to tell me to drill out the threads in the bar, so that each end link will become 'truly adjustable'. It kind of makes sense, and kind of doesn't
    Makes zero sense to me! If you remove the threads in the bar, then the fittings will just slide in the bar, the effect being to not have a brace at all, even though one is fitted...

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Victoria
    Car:
    GG Mazda6 MPS
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnL View Post
    What does 'too much' pre-load mean? There is either zero pre-load, partial pre-load, or full pre-load. 'Too much' preload sounds like you might have gone past zero preload into negative pre-load, i.e. the brace is actually forcing the towers apart?

    Exactly. It was my first strut brace

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnL View Post
    Makes zero sense to me! If you remove the threads in the bar, then the fittings will just slide in the bar, the effect being to not have a brace at all, even though one is fitted...
    Well... If you wound up enough tension in the end links then there will be a degree of 'stiffness' in the bar. And aren't bars meant to reduce inwards flex of the towers, not outwards? As I hinted though, I didn't really believe the guy so hence my bar remains unmolested.
    It's not a f*cking Prelude.

  5. #17
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Integra
    So is it... jack the car up or don't worry about jacking the car?

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Sydney Harbour Bridge
    Car:
    03 CL9 Euro
    don't jack the car up and install strut brace.
    if you jack the chassis flexes.
    vTeK 4-Life!
    FOR SALE: CL9

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