fan switch and thermostat

[bennjamin]

on another note though my car feels like it struggles and i rev it past 6krpm despite feeling stronger than stock.. i've always had the suspicion that the dc2r muffler i have on the car is causing a massive restriction or it's just shot because of the horrible sound it makes.... i know a backpressured system also heats up the engine a lot more.. could this be the issue?

nothing to do with it. I ran a stock vti muffler , twin loop copy and now a EP3R muffler...all run the same mph and similar ET down the 1/4.
FYI my ep3r muffler , on back off makes a terrible noise too...more than likely loose matting inside or rusty bits flying around etc

[dsp26]

nothing to do with it. I ran a stock vti muffler , twin loop copy and now a EP3R muffler...all run the same mph and similar ET down the 1/4.
FYI my ep3r muffler , on back off makes a terrible noise too...more than likely loose matting inside or rusty bits flying around etc

fair enough...

does anyone know the exact oem temp?

coz its too cold on 77*C open.. and its boiling at 90*C open.... 85-87*C perhaps?

[fatboyz39]

boiling? does the fan kick in? Bleed the coolant system properly?

[CRXer]

boiling at 90C???,cmon ron,even straight water at atmospheric dont boil that low.

with a decent coolant mix & 1.3bar,shouldnt boil till up over the 130's.

oem fan switch is about 92C,well mine is anyway,& turns off again around the 87C mark.

how are u measuring all these temps?

if its overflowing at 90C,replace the cap.

[dsp26]

i swear fellas... i just bled the system again last night.. fan kicks in too.. plus i still have the buddy club fan switch installed which turns the fans on at around 80*C which should technically mean i have more cool water in the radiator as requried when thermostat opens.

Jase: not measuring the temps, just stating the tolerances of my cooling devices. I don't actually know the temps but the water definitely boils. the 77*C was the opening of the gates racing low temp thermo and the 90*C is the opening of the Tridon thermos i boguht at supercheap auto.


I put my oem 1.1bar cap on last night too while bleeding my system and the spring system broke and ended up in the radiator (luckilly got stuck in the ribs) will post pics tonight... but i've put the 1.3bar back on in the meantime.



On another note, before i had my rebuild i had a massive water pump leak where i had to keep topping the radiator up with water every 30mins of driving... because this also boiled a lot, i've got a lot of gunk in the radiator now (possible rust?) which i should've flushed but haven't... is this a contributing factor?

[dsp26]

i also can't see any signs of leakage around the engine.. have even lie under the car while idling it to check.. no drips.... yet neithe rad hose feels pressurized either... tis really weird.

i'm confident i got all the air pockets out while bleeding as i made sure there was a constant stream before closing the bleeder.

in case i did it wrong, whats the exact method for bleeding?

[CRXer]

id prob lose the fan switch first & get back to basics.

thermo starts opening at 78C,fully open about 90C.

ideal engine op temp between 80-90C.

fan switch should kick at about 92C.

your fans must be running most of the time,not good for your fans.

is it really boiling,ie steam overflowing or just coolant?

like i said,i ran my car at prob 95% above 6000rpm for 15-20mins straight with stock system,temps remained constant at 87C(datalog of ECT),admittedly it was about 12C air temp.

if both hoses are the same temp,then debris blockage is not really a prob at this point,unless a higher pressure from the blockage is blowing off the rad cap,remember higher pressure=higher boiling point.

also,oem coolant ftw.

[CRXer]

i also can't see any signs of leakage around the engine.. have even lie under the car while idling it to check.. no drips.... yet neithe rad hose feels pressurized either... tis really weird.

i'm confident i got all the air pockets out while bleeding as i made sure there was a constant stream before closing the bleeder.

in case i did it wrong, whats the exact method for bleeding?

to bleed,rad cap half closed, engine up to operating temp(which u prob cant achieve with that fan switch,lol) & operate the bleed screw as u are doing whilst topping up at rad cap.also dont forget car level & heater control on hot.

[dsp26]

to bleed,rad cap half closed, engine up to operating temp(which u prob cant achieve with that fan switch,lol) & operate the bleed screw as u are doing whilst topping up at rad cap.also dont forget car level & heater control on hot.

hhmmm okay seems i did it right-ish except that bit... why's that?

should i attempt the above anyway and just disconnect the fan switch just for this process?

[CRXer]

if u lock the rad cap off,u will pressurize the system & not be able to top up the radiator with out risk of burning yourself or getting hit in the head by a flying rad cap.

u need to achieve higher than 80C for your thermostat to open(assuming oem) so u can circulate all the air out of the system.

[connorling]

i got both, but i havent installed the thermostat, but the fan switch is good if u do some street run, my car now stays at below 90oC, which is good when my car used to exceed 95'c.

[dsp26]

to bleed,rad cap half closed, engine up to operating temp(which u prob cant achieve with that fan switch,lol) & operate the bleed screw as u are doing whilst topping up at rad cap.also dont forget car level & heater control on hot.

did this all again.. doesn't boil anymore.

i also put cleaner in and ran for ~400kms, got a lot of gunk out... did your method and all was sweet.. probably had some blockages as i was using the same water container and i managed to get more of it in this time....

was probably boiling/overheating before due to massive air pockets in the system