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  1. #37
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    Sep 2004
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    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    look at these. Very similar to noltec at half the cost.



    The whole bushing kit, i.e most of the suspension bushings will cos about 300US landed.

  2. #38
    Wow they look great! Do they have the rta bushing available separately?

  3. #39
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    380GT,XTrailSTR
    Quote Originally Posted by fatboyz39 View Post
    look at these. Very similar to noltec at half the cost.
    http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/P1010787.jpg
    http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/P1010788.jpg
    http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/P1010789.jpg
    The whole bushing kit, i.e most of the suspension bushings will cos about 300US landed.
    yup saw those on eBay too... theres a slightly cheaper one i'll look into, the Megan racing one... i emailed them about shipping.

    but this one has the cheapest shipping i can find:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Megan...spagenameZWD1V

    good info and suggestions in this thread!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
    If 1 person has had bad luck with a product don’t condemn it until you yourself have tested it. Now if 10 pros have tried it and it sucked then I would trust their opinion.

  4. #40

  5. #41
    just a thought -

    hey mate, hope you are well

    my RTA bushes are fine, i used black (graphite impregnated) ES bushes.

    the times i have NOT noticed any *issues* include:

    doing 190km/h around turn 1 at eastern creek, doing 145km/h over the dogleg at oran park and doing 7km/h parking my car.

    anyone who talks of binding issues might wanna check the Honda manual for torque specs and proper suspension installation proceedures...

    please use a Honda manual to supplement my DIY overview...

    best of luck...

    david..

  6. #42
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    what is RTA? or binding?

  7. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by fatboyz39 View Post
    what is RTA? or binding?
    read thru this thread noob.

    RTA = rear trailing arm bush
    binding = The term "binding" describes a suspension that does not move smoothly through the operating range. Binding causes dramatic changes in wheel rate as the suspension compresses. Understeer / oversteer tendencies shift rapidly, making handling unpredictable. Ride quality and road grip suffer.

    http://www.elephantracing.com/techtopic/binding.htm

  8. #44
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
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    CT9A
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    read thru this thread noob.

    RTA = rear trailing arm bush
    binding = The term "binding" describes a suspension that does not move smoothly through the operating range. Binding causes dramatic changes in wheel rate as the suspension compresses. Understeer / oversteer tendencies shift rapidly, making handling unpredictable. Ride quality and road grip suffer.

    http://www.elephantracing.com/techtopic/binding.htm
    thanks Ben.

    string: I can ask the seller if you would like a set.

  9. #45
    > Ride quality and road grip suffer

    This thread follows one on Honda-tech some time ago with equal numbers of voices in the yay and nay camps.

    The issue wasn't ride quality, but a tendency to snap oversteer at the limit of suspension travel and (I think) some instability under hard braking.

    Daily driving was fine.


    The Energy Suspension RTA is a Poly Bush only.
    You burn out the old one and re-use the center pin and metal shell.

    Re-using the center pin means the poly bush has to slide on a rough surface which was never meant to do this.

    The Prothane poly bush comes as a complete replacement, poly bush, outer metal shell and center pin.

    There are better designed RTAs out there.

    Hardrace and even sperical bearing products. I think Noltec improved on the Prothane design a bit, but have never seen one.

  10. #46
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    May 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    380GT,XTrailSTR
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    since its likely you squirted it in either side and let it cure - chances are it will simply "fall out" over time. A temp. fix.

    Get the bushes Ron....$50 shipped on US ebay...im getting a set and installing with a mate in the next few weeks if ya wanna come in on it for DIY fun

    Benny!! ended up finding an oem set on ebay for a bargain price of $60 for x2... going to solid fill these ones properly... my last set was full of sand with the rubbers actually torn and a bad poly fill job lol

    can you help me install?
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
    If 1 person has had bad luck with a product don’t condemn it until you yourself have tested it. Now if 10 pros have tried it and it sucked then I would trust their opinion.

  11. #47
    for the OEM set you need a press to get the old out , and new ones back in. Not hard to get out ross...

  12. #48
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    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    EG brusier, STi type R
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    a semi rooted or fully rooted trailing arm bush CAN advance other wear and tear in your rear suspension - such as camber , TOE etc. Get them replaced with OEM or energy solids.
    Also your handling can be adversely affected from old worn trailing arm bushes. Under braking or lift off the car can become twitchy and unsettled (real life experience from track work with 15 year old bushes)
    This is very true. Even with high end coilovers (TODA FIGHTEX), my shot RTA and camber kit inner bushes (common problem with skunk2?) caused me to have a high speed spin under braking with only slight steering angle. Also backing off gently in a high speed bend is very, very scary. Please change your bushes if they are bad...safety first (and performance comes with it!)

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