Rear Camber Arm + Trailing Arm Bush

[andiiso]

well theres the suggestion at post#9 to hammer em out.. but mine are so shot that the pin will just break off the rubber.

last time i had this issue with an old engine mount in another car was:

- cut the rubber out
- hacksaw the ring in 2 spots 1cm apart, making sure not to damage the mount
- hammer that piece out with scredriver
- as a result of the gap the remaining ring was easier to push out
- press the new ones in...

yo man, hammer it side to side, like DONT hammer it on the middle pin thing that bolts to chassis, hammer it on the sides like left side right side left side etc from the inside of the car but if only cost you 40 bux per car for press and just some nuts n bolts for LCA to come out may aswell save the trouble, cos without a hoist the hammering thing mite be difficult lol

[vinnY]

i guess i can sacrifice $20 to get someone to push it out for me and i can take the arm home and push it the new bush back in at a new clocked angle
will let you know soon ron

[vinnY]

*flexes*

[dsp26]

^^video makes me laff!!

done it already or someone elses?

[vinnY]

had one of those genius toilet moments(great idea while peeing)

decided to head outside and throw my trailing arm on the press and eventually got the bushing out
used the bushing as the 'hammer' so to speak.. slowly went around it pushing it out slowly and it eventually just plopped out without much fuss... unlike the rear lca bushings which sort of shoot out when you push them out

[dsp26]

DO MINE PLEASE!!!!! cash for j00!!!!

[vinnY]

pressing them out isn't a problem once they're off the car
depends when you wanna do it and whether i have time or not def. not this weekend though

although i've gotten them out, i still have to figure out
1. how to get them back in
2. how much to clock the bushing for my drop

heard you rotate it 1/4" every inch on h-t, will have to read more about it though

[string]

Rotate it so that it is in it's natural position when the car is sitting on the ground - you'll never get it right using silly rules of thumb like 1/4" per inch. If you did not mark this angle on your trailing arm before you removed it from the car then you made a mistake

You push it back in exactly how far out you pushed the old one, you should be able to see a layer of grime around the sleeve of the old bushing to give you an idea of where to go.

[vinnY]

trailing arms weren't on the car in the first place
4x114.3 conversion underway

[Limbo]

guys if you end up doing it let me know i'm interested in doing mine also
P.S i'm even game to go get them pressed out also by a mech

[vinnY]

limbo; i pressed the bushing out myself in about 5 minutes
probably take a few more minutes to push it back in, just need to find how much i need to clock the bush

[SPEEDCORE]

just need to find how much i need to clock the bush

I'm with String on this one, don't go by rule of thumb.

After ride height is settled on, lower the car onto a flat surface taking all the weight of the car on its tyres.... resting position if you will.

You are going to want to see what the angle of the flat part of the pin is in relation to the RTA. Then get something with a straight edge (ruler) and using the flat ends of the RTA bushing pin... put the ruler on the flat ends of the pin and mark a line along the length of the RTA.

That line is what you use as your guide for installing the bushing..... with the flat parts of the pin being in line with the line you have drawn on the RTA. This results in the bushing not being twisted while the car is at a resting position.

Obviously... for bushings such as the ES where the pin location is not FIXED like the OEM, the above is not needed, it becomes a press bushing in and slide pin in affair.

There was a good write up on how to install OEM type ages ago on Honda Tech but can not for the life of me find it now.