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 Originally Posted by fatboyz39
why not fill out the other space?
cause its all stock like ur motor
12.103@111mph
POWERED BY DR HONDA *DRH24R*
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 Originally Posted by xtercii
Wouldn't it make more sense to just go with a Kseries since a basic k20a package would quite easily push over 150kw atw?
Yes it would power wise to do a k series swap opposed to working a b series, hence why everyone is doing them now a days, but a k swap im sure eats up 10k + very easily when you consider the parts required and then you have mods from there but the potential for greater gains are in a k.
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You need all the right bolt ons and tune to make 150 atw out of a JDM K20A (AND THATS THE PRICEY BOLT ONS) as you will be dreaming if you think you can make 150 out of an K20A2 unless someone fudges the dyno figures.
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When we say quality bolt ons, really we are only talking about good header, IM and ECU, so when compared to the massive amount of works poured into the b20 it's nothing in terms of $$, effort and time...
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 Originally Posted by xtercii
When we say quality bolt ons, really we are only talking about good header, IM and ECU, so when compared to the massive amount of works poured into the b20 it's nothing in terms of $$, effort and time...
jdm k20a with JDMyard IM + 75mm TB , dtr header , 3 inch exhaust , kpro . made 155kw@wheels
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 Originally Posted by DR HONDA
You need all the right bolt ons and tune to make 150 atw out of a JDM K20A (AND THATS THE PRICEY BOLT ONS) as you will be dreaming if you think you can make 150 out of an K20A2 unless someone fudges the dyno figures.
Right on.
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 Originally Posted by fatboyz39
why not fill out the other space?
It's not my car or engine so to be frank it's not up to me.
Plus, being an engine that's making loads of grunt & well & truley at the sharp end of K-series drag racing in this country,
A little bit of mystery isn't really such a bad thing now is it?
TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au
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 Originally Posted by xtercii
Wouldn't it make more sense to just go with a Kseries since a basic k20a package would quite easily push over 150kw atw?
As the other guys have said, 150kw isn't just as simple as intake header & exhaust...
The B-series is doing it's job well at the moment.
After the sprint rounds well have a look at the drag strip with it.
Obviously we won't go anywhere near phil, but we'll see how it goes.
Cheers
Adrian
TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au
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ive got a quick question about phils car i am by no means flaming
how is the k24 bottem end coping with such high rpm is it from an accord or crv is their any difference? that might make it more capable to run those higher rpms?
its just that i read today with the k24a to be running at rpm's that high it would have piston speeds higher then say a f20c at the same rpm from this article
http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/v...p?f=43&t=36869
"the actual bolting on part wouldn't be too difficult, as the heads should mount right up. However, you do run into an issue with piston speed. At its 7900-rpm redline, the K20A2 in the Type-S has a piston speed of 4464 feet per minute (fpm). Thanks to its long stroke, the K24A1 comes close to that, running at 4225 fpm at its much lower redline of 6500 rpm. By the time you've spun your K24 up to just 6900 rpm, you're already at 4485 fpm, and at the 7900 rpm redline of the K20A2, you're at a crazy 5135 fpm. For comparison, even the hyperkinetic S2000 with its 9000 rpm redline doesn't exceed 5000 fpm (it maxes out at 49% fpm). And the Integra's B18C1 only reached 4573 fpm. Translation: If you're going to plunk a K20A2 head on a K24A1 block and redline the concoction to 7900 rpm without seriously building up the bottom end.. duck. "
this was an article when the k series first came out and is from america
i just want to ask these questions so i can learn more about the k series feel free to pm me
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 Originally Posted by mr_vtec
cause its all stock like ur motor 
LOL thats funny
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 Originally Posted by xtercii
When we say quality bolt ons, really we are only talking about good header, IM and ECU, so when compared to the massive amount of works poured into the b20 it's nothing in terms of $$, effort and time...
You don't need to pour massive amounts of money into a B20, its about the right combo, i think a b20 is cheaper to build than a k-series as parts are more accessable and alot cheaper, i don't think you will make 200kws out of a b20 but i think 170-180kws is very achivable with the right setup.
My cousin run's a workshop in the USA and ive been speaking to the founder of b-series and he made 203kws from his b-series but as we know USA dyno's are way out on power figurers, my built is basicly going to be the same and im hoping for some decent figurers and it hasn't cost me a fortune.
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 Originally Posted by B20NA
You don't need to pour massive amounts of money into a B20, its about the right combo, i think a b20 is cheaper to build than a k-series as parts are more accessable and alot cheaper, i don't think you will make 200kws out of a b20 but i think 170-180kws is very achivable with the right setup.
My cousin run's a workshop in the USA and ive been speaking to the founder of b-series and he made 203kws from his b-series but as we know USA dyno's are way out on power figurers, my built is basicly going to be the same and im hoping for some decent figurers and it hasn't cost me a fortune.
170-180 rwkw is a big expensive ask of a b series engine, look at the 152kw the Toda EG is making on pump gas, whilst the cost of this engine is unknown it wouldnt be a budget build and the highest b series dyno sheet made public as far as im aware.
170-180kw would be the most powerful b series this country has seen so look forward to seeing your motor once its up and running but as for 203kw, that would have to be a super high comp, high capacity, race fuel/methanol drinking machine and yes, U.S dyno figures unless coming off the same dyno in the same mode weather corrected.
Whats your build compromise of and how long till your hoping to have it completed?
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