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Originally Posted by string
No official timing but 1:18~ was best from the recordings on a particular day. Chassis is a stock motor 130hp aus DA9. Many seconds left to gain with the setup, can't wait to get back. With the RPM high enough, even my non-vtec heap of garbage is plenty responsive simply due to the massive intake air velocity - having more engine response wouldn't have gained me even 0.1seconds, unless it somehow fixed my completely misaligned front end in the process giving me catastrophic understeer at the hint of steering input.
How quick are you in your DC2R?
Nice! was that with street tyres? I wish my car was lighter. Throwing around 1400kg is not fun.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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Originally Posted by string
No official timing but 1:18~ was best from the recordings on a particular day. Chassis is a stock motor 130hp aus DA9. Many seconds left to gain with the setup, can't wait to get back. With the RPM high enough, even my non-vtec heap of garbage is plenty responsive simply due to the massive intake air velocity - having more engine response wouldn't have gained me even 0.1seconds, unless it somehow fixed my completely misaligned front end in the process giving me catastrophic understeer at the hint of steering input.
How quick are you in your DC2R?
Nice man. Great time!
I'm in the 1.11's, should be faster though. The difference in time from 11 - 18 is quite a bit, and to be honest if my car didn't respond like it did, i'd still be in the 13's. I'm not trying to sound like a ****, but when you are going faster and sliding and stuff, you do need instant engine response coming out of corners and go into them etc. I guess you'll understand what i'm saying when you get down to those times. Response isn't nesscessary, but it's important. I sacrificed peak power for response in my tune, and was miles faster consistantly.
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Originally Posted by string
One second at Wakefield, nice joke! If you want response, start removing mass from the rotating assembly where you will feel the difference, not imagine it due to the price you paid for an oil.
Hey again string...
First of all...Yes I have seen tested conducted and heard first mouth from a family friend that works for mobil say that BP Petrol is the cleanest and that Royal Purple Oil provides the best lubrication...someone that you would consider to have bias...has completely supported something from the other end of the "marketing scale" as you speak of.
There are tests which are hard to come by but other than the one Royal Purple did....by Oil Commisions and divisions of DOT.
I know what you are saying...i agree...i really don't think that the differance of using royal purple compared to Motul or a mid ranged oil will change wear unless we are talking under stressed situations or over 100,000kms + ....I use it because I have the money...i rebuilt my engine and want nothing but the best...that way if my engine has any problems...i know I did everything in my power (including driving relatively conservatively) to prevent it. I have not had ONE single engine problem ever...same with my old mans and mums car which i service the same...both with varying k's of course.
Cheers.
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Originally Posted by Sp00ny
Hey again string...
First of all...Yes I have seen tested conducted and heard first mouth from a family friend that works for mobil say that BP Petrol is the cleanest and that Royal Purple Oil provides the best lubrication...someone that you would consider to have bias...has completely supported something from the other end of the "marketing scale" as you speak of.
There are tests which are hard to come by but other than the one Royal Purple did....by Oil Commisions and divisions of DOT.
I know what you are saying...i agree...i really don't think that the differance of using royal purple compared to Motul or a mid ranged oil will change wear unless we are talking under stressed situations or over 100,000kms + ....I use it because I have the money...i rebuilt my engine and want nothing but the best...that way if my engine has any problems...i know I did everything in my power (including driving relatively conservatively) to prevent it. I have not had ONE single engine problem ever...same with my old mans and mums car which i service the same...both with varying k's of course.
Cheers.
String was talking about doubting a big performance increase from more expensive oil. Not protection increase from more expensive oil.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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Originally Posted by VTECACCORD
Amsoil
where did u get amsoil?
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Originally Posted by aaronng
String was talking about doubting a big performance increase from more expensive oil. Not protection increase from more expensive oil.
Your completely right, haha. I apologise string. I did forget to mention response though, I could notice a differance in response meaning the car jumps from low to full throtlle and instanty accelerates. Actual power wise I can't tell a differance. This is comparing Fuchs/ Motul synthetics to royal purple. Same viscosity.
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Originally Posted by VTECMACHINE
Nice man. Great time!
I'm in the 1.11's, should be faster though. The difference in time from 11 - 18 is quite a bit, and to be honest if my car didn't respond like it did, i'd still be in the 13's. I'm not trying to sound like a ****, but when you are going faster and sliding and stuff, you do need instant engine response coming out of corners and go into them etc. I guess you'll understand what i'm saying when you get down to those times. Response isn't nesscessary, but it's important. I sacrificed peak power for response in my tune, and was miles faster consistantly.
I would have gone much faster if I wasn't sliding all over the place - but I think it's crazy to think you'll get a setup right first go. I won't go into the details but with a new chassis I'm picking up next week I'd like to shave off a couple of seconds when I return early next year. Going to see how far I can take the stock motor. Not interesed in power, only carrying corner speed
Out of curiosity, how exactly did your tuner sacrifice peak power for response?
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Originally Posted by string
I would have gone much faster if I wasn't sliding all over the place - but I think it's crazy to think you'll get a setup right first go. I won't go into the details but with a new chassis I'm picking up next week I'd like to shave off a couple of seconds when I return early next year. Going to see how far I can take the stock motor. Not interesed in power, only carrying corner speed
Out of curiosity, how exactly did your tuner sacrifice peak power for response?
Lap times aren't everything and I really don't care, I was just trying to stress a point, and it seems you are determined to go off on a a different tangent.
If I knew how to tune, and understood it, I wouldn't have a tuner, i'd do it myself. But overall, he generally made it a safer tune. He overlapped VTAK change over which gave me a bunch of mid range response, and by playing with fueling it gave me freaking s**t loads of response, but lost a few KW of peak power.
Anyways, 5W-30 makes an engine (Well, a B18C7 anyways) respond much better then if using 10W-40, regardless of brand, price or protection ...End of story.
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We use ELF 15W50 synthetic oil in our Super Sprint EG
B18C based engine...
Exellent pressure & temperature control
It is likley we'd make more power with a thinner oil & have better response,
However engine life is more important.
TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au
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engine: B18c7
oil brand and W: Mobil 1 Gold EP 5-30
kms: 156000km
likes and dislikes: Love it. I get from a importer from America. Different Mobil 1 from super cheap ect, No burning which i was getting with castrol Edge 5-30. Stay's clear golden colour between services. I service every 5000 km or 6 months
Oil Filter. K&N
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