Cam upgarde

**Louis - Type S** · 15-11-2008 05:57 PM

Hay blabla - go the B18C7 + Gearbox route dude, I did and can honestly say I am very very happy with the results. I know its abit pricey but it is well worth it, puts a smile on my face everytime i take it for a spin.

**VT1-R** · 18-11-2008 08:16 PM

erm.. get b20 like most are saying.. gd value and chop some stock turbos for sure..

also.. get some lighter wheels with ur cams job and a full ECU to tune it to perfection.. will feel a diff then.. just cams esp. CTR, i have seen online that best gain is 5-8whp tuned.. So all that for 5-8whp.. either go better cams or just get full ECU(about 10whp++) 1st.. and in the future do b20 vtec when u rich..

coz i bought CTR cams months ago and realize the shit n $$ involved to do it vs the gains.. its jus not worth it so i sold it.. anyway its up to u.. gd luck!!

**blabla** · 19-11-2008 07:42 AM

Originally Posted by VT1-R

erm.. get b20 like most are saying.. gd value and chop some stock turbos for sure..

also.. get some lighter wheels with ur cams job and a full ECU to tune it to perfection.. will feel a diff then.. just cams esp. CTR, i have seen online that best gain is 5-8whp tuned.. So all that for 5-8whp.. either go better cams or just get full ECU(about 10whp++) 1st.. and in the future do b20 vtec when u rich..

coz i bought CTR cams months ago and realize the shit n $$ involved to do it vs the gains.. its jus not worth it so i sold it.. anyway its up to u.. gd luck!!

Ive got an ecu already u mean lighter cam gears ye?

Just going to put cams & port n polish for now then later on i am going to do the bottom end.

**dsp26** · 19-11-2008 10:44 AM

^^^port and polish is ~$600 on top.

as Adrian (Toda Au) already mentioned can you justify ~5kw for $600... that $600 is better spent on an intake manifold and throttle body.

As some builders will mention, port/polsi + port matching are the cherry on top of the cream.. the absolute last race car tricks to squeeze that extra bit of power.. they are by no means value for money in terms of power.

what Ecu do you have and who 'chipped it'?.. it will still cost you about $650+ to get it CROME tuned... Hondata is better for tuning resolution and will cost you extra.

for the cost of all that work as others have said its better to just get a B18c/B18b/B20 block and you'll be happier with it.

take it from me, i have a 1210kg Del Sol (with half tank and no driver and i'm 85kg)... my car is now somewhere in the vicinity of 110-115wkw and it still feels like shit below 6krpm despite the average 5-8wkw gain in the low and midrange.... at the end of the day theres still no torque.

most of the guys here who have well built B16a's still have a stripped or light chassis of sorts....

so all that together, labour,cams,tune,complimentary parts is still around ~$3k which already costs more than a block swap that will provide more usable power....

having a dyno queen figure of 110-120wkw on a B16a is just that.. its power that usually sits between 7000-9000rpm of which you'll never be in during daily drive.... all the other rpm your probably in the 80-100kw range with shitall torque.

if you can get a B18b2 block then go for it, at least you can use your P30 pistons from the B16a block to increase the compression significantly to take advantage of future camshaft upgrades.... the b16a block isn't worth shit.. may as well make the most out of it

Just FYI to give you a benchmark against my costs (and i managed to source these hell cheap)
BC3+ cams = $800
Toda A valve springs = $150 second hand from forum
Valve stem seals = $30 for the set or $8ea from Honda Australia
WP/TB/Tensioner = $150
Labour (inc. notching valve reliefs in pistons) + Head work (inc. shave/valve seating and assembly) = $1300
AEBS Intake Manifold = $300 from US
68mm TB = $200 from US
Buddy Club Head gasket 0.5mm = $129 from OH Trader (JDMYard)
Vision 5-bolt Cam Gears = $150 from US

**blabla** · 19-11-2008 10:49 AM

what is the next step up from the ITR cams mhe screw the pnp use it for something else

**dsp26** · 19-11-2008 11:03 AM

Also if the cams your getting require dual valve springs the head has to come off anyway... i suggest you source yourself some flat-faced valves from the US for about $300 delivered.. this will give you an additional 0.5:1 compression ratio... higher CR is the key to making bigger cams work.

Originally Posted by blabla

what is the next step up from the ITR cams mhe screw the pnp use it for something else

Toda A/A2 Spec
Skunk2 Stage 1
Buddy Club 3+

all of which require stiffer springs... as do the ITRs anyway.....

**Benson** · 19-11-2008 12:22 PM

I wouldn't bother with headwork. . you'll only get dyno numbers and not drivability....

take dsp26 as an example.... not worth it ..I guess he has the right parts for a b20vtec...

Look at our b16a2... so much work for little gains...

**mocchi** · 19-11-2008 12:38 PM

Originally Posted by Benson

I wouldn't bother with headwork. . you'll only get dyno numbers and not drivability....

take dsp26 as an example.... not worth it ..I guess he has the right parts for a b20vtec...

Look at our b16a2... so much work for little gains...

lol i pity you. jk. haha
i still love your engine bay

TORQUE FTMFWB!

**Benson** · 19-11-2008 12:41 PM

Our little b16a2 isn't so shy ....its not an average b16a2.

**tangman** · 19-11-2008 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by dsp26

having a dyno queen figure of 110-120wkw on a B16a is just that.. its power that usually sits between 7000-9000rpm of which you'll never be in during daily drive.... all the other rpm your probably in the 80-100kw range with shitall torque.

just wanted to know how much a 4.9 final drive would help increase torque with the above setup.

cheers

Tang