Cam upgarde

[mocchi]

It will increase the torque atw since gearing multiplies torque

thats right y0!

btw zeforce i love your build

[ZeForce]

just wanted to know how much a 4.9 final drive would help increase torque with the above setup.

cheers


Tang

4.9/4.4 = 1.11

=> ~11% increase in torque atw

thats right y0!

btw zeforce i love your build

lol thanks

[dsp26]

I wouldn't bother with headwork. . you'll only get dyno numbers and not drivability....

take dsp26 as an example.... not worth it ..I guess he has the right parts for a b20vtec...

Look at our b16a2... so much work for little gains...

yah.. i guess the lesson here for the OP is that if you can't afford to go the lengths all the way then you will be spending money and still won't be happy.. the only logical choice is to be like everyone else who just do I/H/E and be done with it or actually 'finish' something....

these are the options for complete:
- B16 = Built Head with all the correct components working together and at least the FD
- B18c7 + lsd 4.7fd gearbox and be done with it
- CRVTEC(b20vtec) or LSVTEC(b18b2vtec) with mild head work

If you can't afford any of them then stay with what you already have and be happy with it and save for your next great buy of a car.... if you want, PM me and you can drive my car... should be out of the workshop next week.

This is the curse of a HoonDuh... "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races"... HoonDuhs were never designed to be amazingly fast on the straight, but rather, more than adequate HP for trackwork in combination with sussy/chassis/brake setup. The first step in truly appreciating the ownership of a Honda is to understand the manufacturers purpose.... i understand it now after coming from faster cars and being.. in a sense, 'disappointed' with a worked B16a....

this is why i feel sorry for all the hoon civic drivers that always "vtec yo" and 'think' they have a fast car... they don't understand what fast is and what it takes to win a race in its many forms... you have to have a purpose for your build and set your goals and budget accordingly...

it's called project management, i hope it's something thats taught at school these days, it sure as hell hard to learn through consequences in a corporate environment




***EDIT***
But we know your not going to listen anyway lol... I had the same mentality and did it all anyway... some people only accept the answers the hard way

[Paul1985]

There is no replacement for displacement.

Go with the 2.0lt bottom end.

$1300 you would be pushing any of the options people mention. Hidden costs always suck.

[bennjamin]

It will increase the torque atw since gearing multiplies torque

Its a short answer no , long answer "...It will increase the torque atw since gearing multiplies torque..."

[mocchi]

yah.. i guess the lesson here for the OP is that if you can't afford to go the lengths all the way then you will be spending money and still won't be happy.. the only logical choice is to be like everyone else who just do I/H/E and be done with it or actually 'finish' something....

these are the options for complete:
- B16 = Built Head with all the correct components working together and at least the FD
- B18c7 + lsd 4.7fd gearbox and be done with it
- CRVTEC(b20vtec) or LSVTEC(b18b2vtec) with mild head work

If you can't afford any of them then stay with what you already have and be happy with it and save for your next great buy of a car.... if you want, PM me and you can drive my car... should be out of the workshop next week.

This is the curse of a HoonDuh... "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races"... HoonDuhs were never designed to be am....


***EDIT***
But we know your not going to listen anyway lol... I had the same mentality and did it all anyway... some people only accept the answers the hard way

LEARN FROM THIS MAN! first hand experience!

youre so cool can i be your friend? hehe

[blabla]

1 question, who else in sydney does the b20 bottom end conversions. Gp, Toda?

[fatboyz39]

yah.. i guess the lesson here for the OP is that if you can't afford to go the lengths all the way then you will be spending money and still won't be happy.. the only logical choice is to be like everyone else who just do I/H/E and be done with it or actually 'finish' something....

these are the options for complete:
- B16 = Built Head with all the correct components working together and at least the FD
- B18c7 + lsd 4.7fd gearbox and be done with it
- CRVTEC(b20vtec) or LSVTEC(b18b2vtec) with mild head work

If you can't afford any of them then stay with what you already have and be happy with it and save for your next great buy of a car.... if you want, PM me and you can drive my car... should be out of the workshop next week.

This is the curse of a HoonDuh... "Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races"... HoonDuhs were never designed to be amazingly fast on the straight, but rather, more than adequate HP for trackwork in combination with sussy/chassis/brake setup. The first step in truly appreciating the ownership of a Honda is to understand the manufacturers purpose.... i understand it now after coming from faster cars and being.. in a sense, 'disappointed' with a worked B16a....

this is why i feel sorry for all the hoon civic drivers that always "vtec yo" and 'think' they have a fast car... they don't understand what fast is and what it takes to win a race in its many forms... you have to have a purpose for your build and set your goals and budget accordingly...

it's called project management, i hope it's something thats taught at school these days, it sure as hell hard to learn through consequences in a corporate environment




***EDIT***
But we know your not going to listen anyway lol... I had the same mentality and did it all anyway... some people only accept the answers the hard way

Well said. If you want to stick to a b16a then do it properly.

[fatboyz39]

1 question, who else in sydney does the b20 bottom end conversions. Gp, Toda?

Try bel garage.

[grumpy rooster]

There is no replacement for displacement.

Go with the 2.0lt bottom end.

$1300 you would be pushing any of the options people mention. Hidden costs always suck.

This man speaks the truth.

I always look at things in this order assuming headers and exhaust are already done:

- lightweight flywheel & uprated clutch
- final drive
- compression increase (by shaving the head which may involve notching the pistons)
- while the head is off getting shaved quick tidy up of the ports

This will give you a healthy increase in useable power and torque, but won't win any dyno comps.

If your up for a block change then go for the biggest capacity you can afford.

[blabla]

This man speaks the truth.

I always look at things in this order assuming headers and exhaust are already done:

- lightweight flywheel & uprated clutch
- final drive
- compression increase (by shaving the head which may involve notching the pistons)
- while the head is off getting shaved quick tidy up of the ports

This will give you a healthy increase in useable power and torque, but won't win any dyno comps.

If your up for a block change then go for the biggest capacity you can afford.

whats the cost for the;

- final drive
- compression increase (by shaving the head which may involve notching the pistons)
- while the head is off getting shaved quick tidy up of the ports.

[dsp26]

^^its cheaper to get a type r 4.7 lsd gearbox for maybe around $1600-$1800 forum price here + sell yours for maybe $600... pay about $300 for labour cost.

getting say the MFactory FD on its own for around $700 (forum price) plus installation (around $1000+ for removal/open/install/refit) and you still don't have the lsd...