Honda Euro Final Drive

[EUR003act]

if the dyno doesn't know wat the gears are, then it cant accurately give a representation of wheel kw, u will get a gain or lose depending on if the ratio is shorter or higher, but techniquelly, its not there.

dyno gives power reading at the wheels... its exactly that... at the wheels... doesnt matter what your gearbox is doing...

Adrian the final drive is the final gear in your gearbox. It changes the overall speed of the final output speed of a gear (the final drive). If the ratio is higher, like the EuroR's 4.75 to the CL9's 4.38 (I think that's what Aaron said it was) then it takes approximately another .4 revolutions of the engine to make 1 revolution of the driveshaft, thus the engine needs to spin more to get the wheels to move the same speed, giving you a lower top speed in each gear.

The reason you want a shorter final drive is so the car can throw itself through each gear quicker because the gear isn't as long. But usually the shorter final drive is used in the Type R's where they're tuned for high rpm and they don't want to fall out of peak power after a shift. The K24A makes it's max torque at 4500rpm, and after a redline shift from 1st into 2nd you fall basically (I do) right back to 4500rpm. The CL9 box is pretty well suited to the power curve of the engine and I don't think the EuroR final drive would give you much benefit at all.

very true... stock K24A3 makes most power between 4500-6800rpm... shortening your final drive in most circumstances will take you out of the rev range... unless you drive around at 6000rpm all day...

final drive is a waste to change IMO unless you are going to track your car or quarter mile which then results in different final drive selection.
so unless your car is a daily track monster then don't bother wasting your money my 2c

cruising on the highway will be like 3500rpm in 6th gear lmao...

Using your example to get to a 60km/h limit, the stock 4.388 final drive will be quicker because you can reach close to 60km/h using just 1st gear. With a shorter final drive, you have to shift into 2nd. Same if you were going up to 100km/h, you can just barely get there in 2nd gear with the 4.388 but you would need 3rd gear with a shorter final drive.

yep!

4.3 final drive equals quicker 0-100 (ur still in second when u hit 100)

4.7 final drive equals quicker 1/4 mile (ur well into third when u finish)

Buy a turbo

read up about installing a turbo on a DBW CL9 before making comments like that...and he asked whether a CL7 final drive would fit in his euro, not what performance mods people think he should get...

IMO - final drive costs way too much if you dont have the mods to support it (dont forgot your looking at around $500-600 for install) for the money youd see better gains (accel + performance + economy) getting an intake and headers...