i'll just chime in a bit as i've done some testing before....
firstly jase, your symptoms are that of the ICM, almost every car forum post similar descriptions to yours at this time of the year (summer) it's a combination of age as well as the very very original icm unit from the factory was not tolerant to heat... this was later corrected for obd2 models and is compatible with past models... the backing plates are just different. all the oems now as well as the oem replacements from the states are tolerant upto 300*F
as per what benny and b18cEG (paul is it?) are talking about.... i did manage to get the oem coil to run at 1.3mm plug gap safely with random misfires at 1.5mm gap.... the msd blaster ss coil started getting random misfires at 1.3mm but was very rare. testing was done the same day within an hour under the same conditions and exact same road. the winner was the lx91 crane cams model that didn't start misfiring till after 1.7mm
you can however get a replacement internal coil with "+20% more power"... i think the manufacturer was altec.... i've yet to test it
Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
If 1 person has had bad luck with a product don’t condemn it until you yourself have tested it. Now if 10 pros have tried it and it sucked then I would trust their opinion.
did he mention when he plays around with a certain lead at the dizzy cap it goes away
jase, could it be the lead then? i've had the connector in the lead come off before due to sheer age and it was an ngk item....
check the things that can be checked for free such as that to narrow down... no point buying stuff randomly
***EDIT***
lol re-read again... leads and plugs changed.
borrow the stuff you wanna buy if you can....
if you get desperate lemme know and i can post you up a cap and working icm to test if your willing to post it back... if one of them solves your problem then i'll just sell it to you for a good rate
***EDIT AGAIN***
with what ek4-guy mentioned... is that lead near the broken screw? dizy cap not sitting properly and the contacts are further from the rotor causing misfire?
Last edited by dsp26; 19-01-2009 at 08:12 AM.
Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
If 1 person has had bad luck with a product don’t condemn it until you yourself have tested it. Now if 10 pros have tried it and it sucked then I would trust their opinion.
nah the screw broke way after the problem started. lol I haven't driven it with the broken screw yet.
I had problems when i got home from a meet and when i pushed on the leads the problem was still there. bt when i pushed on the cap it went away.
I'm starting to think that the solution isn't with the cap though. cause i haven't been able to narrow it down to one single action that i take (like pushing a certain lead, pressin on the cap etc) which fixes the problem. I think it may be coincidence that it fixes itself when i'm playing with it.
I'll look at all the options DSP before i get you to post anything. If its not too expensive i'll look at replacing the major components. The car is 14 years old and up until last friday it was completely original/stock (even the leads were 14 years old.)
It might just be time to find a good OE spec aftermarket distributor to replace it with. It will fix the part that is failing and will be preventitive maintenance for the rest of the system.
BMI sell generic distributors for hondas but there not the best, but they do the job. Tried it on my brothers car.
Originally Posted by JasonGilholme
nah the screw broke way after the problem started. lol I haven't driven it with the broken screw yet.
I had problems when i got home from a meet and when i pushed on the leads the problem was still there. bt when i pushed on the cap it went away.
I'm starting to think that the solution isn't with the cap though. cause i haven't been able to narrow it down to one single action that i take (like pushing a certain lead, pressin on the cap etc) which fixes the problem. I think it may be coincidence that it fixes itself when i'm playing with it.
I'll look at all the options DSP before i get you to post anything. If its not too expensive i'll look at replacing the major components. The car is 14 years old and up until last friday it was completely original/stock (even the leads were 14 years old.)
It might just be time to find a good OE spec aftermarket distributor to replace it with. It will fix the part that is failing and will be preventitive maintenance for the rest of the system.
cool thanks trung. Will be lookin at all options before i spend any money. I've found a few good options so far. Will post up what i do and how it turns out etc.
Your not going to like honda's price for a dizzy I have rang about one before
There is a place in the states called the Distributor King he sells dizzys a lot cheaper and a few people have told me they are decent and a lot of people from the states use them
I've seen plenty of OE spec replacements for about 200 - 250 US. but haven't found anything with the right housing yet. They're mainly OBD0/1 and i need OBD2.
Even if i was going to by the cap/rotor/ICM all together its still better off if i get a new OE spec dizzy. That way i get the bearings, sensors etc as well as the ICM/Cap/Rotor etc.
Will just need to buy a timing light for the install thats all.
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Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
= First Production Company To Produce 100HP Per Litre NA
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