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hey man mine is a 8mm-10mm return line yours looks big enough and its at the top of the sump so thats right, your turbo should be fine but you will need to put the smaller restrictor in it for sure i have a GT28R here with the right size oil restrictor i can put a pic up of and meassure for you? and make sure you have both copper rings on the bolt when you put it back in because that will make it leak as well
WOULD YOU LIKE SOME FRONT BAR WITH YOUR FRONT MOUNT 
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 Originally Posted by lookingforboost
hey man mine is a 8mm-10mm return line yours looks big enough and its at the top of the sump so thats right, your turbo should be fine but you will need to put the smaller restrictor in it for sure i have a GT28R here with the right size oil restrictor i can put a pic up of and meassure for you? and make sure you have both copper rings on the bolt when you put it back in because that will make it leak as well
Yeah Ryan I'm quite sure that's the problem.
I called GCG for a price on a rebuild and they asked what was wrong and I explained what's happening.
They told me my turbos fine as the seals are not air tight like I thought they would be and I just need the right restrictor to match my motors pressure.
My dad and I are going to weld and redrill the restrictor with a 1mm hole tonight
161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001
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> They told me my turbos fine as the seals are not air tight like I thought they would be
AFAIK, generically, there are two types of turbo seals.
Carbon and dynamic.
The new GT series should be dynamic which depend on the the spindle rotating to function.
Carbon seals, were used on non-water cooled turbos and turbos which were installed low, ie below the oil level in the sump and maybe on draw through installations.
This is about the limit of my turbo seal knowledge, so feel free to jump in.
I believe carbon seals are available for T3 frame turbos, if you're rebuilding the GT, it might be something to look into.
There's a book by Graeme Smith for Graeme Bell (I think, Wollongong uni has a copy) detailing oil routing which you might be of interest.
Nick.
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 Originally Posted by nd55
> They told me my turbos fine as the seals are not air tight like I thought they would be
AFAIK, generically, there are two types of turbo seals.
Carbon and dynamic.
The new GT series should be dynamic which depend on the the spindle rotating to function.
Carbon seals, were used on non-water cooled turbos and turbos which were installed low, ie below the oil level in the sump and maybe on draw through installations.
This is about the limit of my turbo seal knowledge, so feel free to jump in.
I believe carbon seals are available for T3 frame turbos, if you're rebuilding the GT, it might be something to look into.
There's a book by Graeme Smith for Graeme Bell (I think, Wollongong uni has a copy) detailing oil routing which you might be of interest.
Nick.
Hey Nick
So the faster the turbo spins the better the seal works yeah?
How my D16Y1 box going?
161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001
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Lukenzen i was running 1.5mm on my old gt28r and that was fine but i had the same issue with an older gt28 running 4mm where it didnt break the compressor seal but it would leek through and i poored out over 1 litre of oil from my intercooler.
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Also i put my oil dump here...similar pos to yours and its fine.
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 Originally Posted by FastFwd
Lukenzen i was running 1.5mm on my old gt28r and that was fine but i had the same issue with an older gt28 running 4mm where it didnt break the compressor seal but it would leek through and i poored out over 1 litre of oil from my intercooler.
Thanks FastFwd
I think 1mm should fix the problem.
I was amazed just how much oil the 1.6mm pushed out, was close to a liter in abut 30 seconds..
Great news about the sump, I didn't wanta have to drill that crap again lol
161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001
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I originally drilled it and then using a copper fitting i screwed it into the sump and used a nut on the other side to lock it tight and i sealed it with some plumbing tape...that was great for about a year but in my last build i removed my sump and got someone to weld that copper fitting onto the sump. Havent had one issue since.
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 Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Thanks FastFwd
I think 1mm should fix the problem.
I was amazed just how much oil the 1.6mm pushed out, was close to a liter in abut 30 seconds..
Great news about the sump, I didn't wanta have to drill that crap again lol
yeah that sounds about right... when I first ran my car without a restrictor I was blowing smoke out of my exhaust badly and my oil feed was flowing over 1 litre in 15secs lol now Im using 1.5mm restrictor and it flows ~500mL in 15 secs which is the correct amount needed for a journal bearing turbo. Like I said before a BB turbo requires less, maybe 250-300mL in 15 secs
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> How my D16Y1 box going?
Been busy moving.
What family have loving to as 'JUNK, get rid of it'.
Don't know why they hate Honda's some much. he, he. 
Nick.
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 Originally Posted by nd55
> How my D16Y1 box going?
Been busy moving.
What family have loving to as 'JUNK, get rid of it'.
Don't know why they hate Honda's some much. he, he.
Nick.
So what about >So the faster the turbo spins the better the seal works yeah?>
familys love to throw the good shit away
161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001
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Try this-
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
3rd row of items down. They have more somewhere on the site.
DA9 LS w/JDM SiR B18C turbo
Looking for older Honda project car pre-1985
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