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  1. #1

    Leaky prop valve?

    Hey crew!
    just wondering if you guys can point me in the right direction...
    I had a leaky master cylinder used a rebuild kit for the master cylinder(using the DIY post from this forum of coruse) which has stopped the pedal fadding to the floor which is good news but there is still a leak and I am sure it is the prop valve!

    Honda dealer quoted me $330 !
    Is there anything else i can do but replace it?
    it doesn't seem to consist of much in there.


    thanks guys.

    Andrew

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    prob the fittings. Maybe just need to use some teflon thread on the seals
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    yeh prop valves do give in over time, i have never heard of rebuilding a prop valve at least not a honda. your best bet is to get a used one mate, mine started leaking and replaced it with a used EG6 one for 20-30 bucks dont remember. look at it closely and you will see some numbers like: 30/30, 30/40, 40/40. get one that has the same numbers as yours
    [h=Massive EG6/DC2 Part Out (majority brand new)
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...y-brand-new%29]2[/h]

  4. #4
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    S2000
    Make sure you get the same one as your model as they all have slightly different brake pressures for each wheel. It's the seals in them that go and just using some sort of thread sealant isn't enough as the lines aren't the things that are leaking. It might look like the lines but with you driving it, the wind will push the leaking fluid in any direction looking like the lines are leaking. If you can't find a known brand of aftermarket valve just get the OEM one. It will last and give you the right feeling and proportion of brake bias, etc. If you do it yourself use a good quality pipe spanner (I've had a Snap-On item round a line before, so be careful) and always start the lines before remounting it to the firewall. Air always gets trapped to the closest wheel to the furthest (unlike what most people think (according to a Aust Honda bulletin)) then if you like, just bleed it in the opposite direction.

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