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  1. #49
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    4 banger
    how much is it to replace a D $250 for the entire motor? LOLOLOL the cheapest one i saw was $150 for complete motor. if it blows, why replace the part, go get a new motor.

    people fear having a D because it was never a performance motor in the first place and is heavily bagged out by fulley sick people. but for the price u pay for the jacked up price B's these days u seriously can have a forged, built, cumming machine D motor for even less. add more money for a turbo kit and u sir have spent enough money to buy a Bseries motor + swap. at this moment D>B budget for budget.

    otherwise be cool and go K-series. den u can be maddest ozhonda member alive
    ohh herrow im jdm

  2. #50
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    JDM EG Built B16a2 Turbo
    ok so buying a running fully functional D after he blew the last one and $500 out of pocket:

    He can chuck that back in his car, run it as an NA or turbo but then he will still need to do a rebuild for forged or else the same thing will hapen... If he pays for someone to do the rebuild its going to cost him 2500-3000 for the forged setup to make it run reliable or else the same thing will happen over and over. OR you can buy a b series pull more power out of it, not get board and be alot stronger, also having alot more oportunity to get more power in the future where you wont with the d as you will be stuck on a max 10psi getting 119kw where you can have a fully reliable car pushing 151kw without a hickup and have the ability to push alot more power out of it with more.

    In the end 10psi on a d its bound to break sooner or later and you will be going through motors and tbh i couldnt be bothered. I've blown 4 all up. He could poor lots of money into a D and pull alot of power but he will be limited with the amount he can get out of it.

    Once you have the B in you car you dont need to spend as much to get more power.
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  3. #51
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    4 banger
    lolololol

    how much does a stock bseries engine cost?
    how much does a dseries engine cost to forge
    both will require a turbo kit

    which will yield more power at the end for the same budget and be more reliable? i wonder. very curious to why bseries cost jack loads. something to do wit demand and supply i guess

    VTEC YO
    ohh herrow im jdm

  4. #52
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    JDM EG Built B16a2 Turbo
    yer would be a good comparison.....

    I seen a b16a sell the other day for $1500 including box. After sorting it all out it would cost yar around $3000...so lukenzen said $3500 for his.

    Say $3200 all up NA b16a2 running in the car.

    New d series engine would be 500-600 max then install $1000 all up.

    Boosted D with stock internals extra 2500 for low psi turbo setup


    B16a2 NA: $3200 (Reliable average power 110hp atw's giving the k's)
    D16y5 NA: $1000 (Reliable average power 75hp atw's giving the k's)
    D16y5 Boosted High Comp: $1000 + $2500 (Unreliable on 10psi with 158hp atw's)
    B16a2 Boosted High Comp: $3000 + $2500 (Reliable on 8psi with 202hp atw's)
    D16y5 Boosted Build Low Comp: $1000 + $3000(rebuild) + $4000(bigger turbo setup) (reliable on 20psi with 280hp atw's maybe less or more)
    B16a2 Boosted Built Low Comp $3000 + 3000 + $4000(bigger Turbo Setup) (reliable on 20psi with 330hp atw's)

    this is sorta all based on info from lukenzens dyno's and some of my costs ive incured in the past.
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  5. #53
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    Luke did 11PSI on a baby Greddy turbo

    All this in the last 12mths or so

    D to B
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  6. #54
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Queensland
    Car:
    EK1 Civic
    you can build a 300whp+ d-series bottom end for about $1000. i wouldnt be arguing this point if i knew a d-series built bottom end would cost 2.5k, id tell this bloke to do a b swap straight up.

    stock D's can handle roughly around 220whp , thats 160kws!! for a daily driven civic coupe, thats plenty for me. hell, id even be happy with 120kw atws. for a safe leeway, i wouldnt go passed 190whp on a stock D.

    There are people building d's for the simple fact that its alot cheaper compared to building a B. a boosted high comp D would be as reliable as a boosted hi comp b, its all in the tuning & tuning boosted high comps are a little trickier to low comps...

  7. #55
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Tai Land
    Car:
    Subaru Tai-berty
    these bicthes always argue bout the same shit ....

  8. #56
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    Quote Originally Posted by VTECnique View Post
    you can build a 300whp+ d-series bottom end for about $1000. i wouldnt be arguing this point if i knew a d-series built bottom end would cost 2.5k, id tell this bloke to do a b swap straight up.

    stock D's can handle roughly around 220whp , thats 160kws!! for a daily driven civic coupe, thats plenty for me. hell, id even be happy with 120kw atws. for a safe leeway, i wouldnt go passed 190whp on a stock D.

    There are people building d's for the simple fact that its alot cheaper compared to building a B. a boosted high comp D would be as reliable as a boosted hi comp b, its all in the tuning & tuning boosted high comps are a little trickier to low comps...
    Stock D's can't handle 220whp fool

    Don't write crap people might read and believe!!!!!!!

    220whp is where the stock D con rods brake
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  9. #57
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    JDM EG Built B16a2 Turbo
    Im actually not arguing this point im just puting mind to logic really...three of us here have gone from d to b because of similar reasons. I never boosted my D but i did blow it up lol.

    But then again i have blow my B twice but they wernt my doing. Was bad Tuning and bad mechanics. Since i do all the work myself now its been great.

    I just think to be honest and not bagging the D because if u can get more for less then i guess thats a good option but to me the B feels alot more solid. Power band is alot nicer and it has alot more torque. You have to push the D fairly hard to give it some good numbers and the more you push a more the more things can brake and most of us here use these cars as daily drivers so we dont need this happening.
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  10. #58
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Tai Land
    Car:
    Subaru Tai-berty
    bang for buck D is better . THE END

  11. #59
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    Quote Originally Posted by Fo55il View Post
    bang for buck D is better . THE END
    I don't think anyones arguing that point
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  12. #60
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    JDM EG Built B16a2 Turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by Fo55il View Post
    bang for buck D is better . THE END
    I think theres a few puns in there somewhere lol
    Fastfwd Photoshoot cover pic Click here!

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