Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
Aim: drum to disc
Required: show as below
Steps: a few
Other comments
I picked up the rear disc brakes and suspension brackets off a wrecked DC2R for $250 with parking brake cables to complete the swap. Everything else will just bolt onto the EG or EK Civic!!!
Here are the trailing arms, upper control arms, discs, calipers and parking brake cables cleaned up and ready to install. Time frame for this mod should between 4 to 8 hours depending on your tools, space and any problem bolts! This is on the same skill level as installing shocks, headers or cam shaft.
For this swap there are some pre-swap prep details that need to be done and supplies to be purchased before you can start the job:
Have the rotors turned and minimum thickness run out checked.
Buy new rear brake pads (your already down there anyway)
Buy new Honda or DOT 3 brake fluid, at least 1 quart for bleeding of brakes.Buy disc brake quiet or anti-squeal (it’s blue and you need this)
New rear pad shims (only if they are rusted or missing)
Brake Cleaner spray
Okay first jack up your car onto stands and remove rear wheel. There are 5 bolts that hold the rear trailing arm onto your car, these and the parking brake cable and brake line need to be disconnected to swap the rear arm and brake unit.
Prep the new disc brakes for installation. Clean up the new calipers with brake cleaner and mount new pads, shims and apply Anti-Squeal to pads. I also applied Anti-Seize to all bolts for easy removal later on. Tighten to specs. This would be also a good time to paint the calipers while off your car if you like to. Due to heat of brakes use Brake Caliper paint or 1200-degree engine enamel. Brakes heat up in excess of 900-degrees
Now start with the parking brake cable. You’ll need to remove one of the front seats and center parking brake trim. Pull carpet from under rear seat forward to access the parking brake lock nuts. Disconnect both from parking handle and push rubber gasket and wires down into car. Now underneath there are a few bolts that secure the cable to the body. You may have to move part of exhaust head shield to access some bolts.
Use a 10mm wrench to loosen brake line on car from the hose to drum. Use the rubber bleeder nipple to cover brake hose on car. Otherwise this will leak and you may have to bleed your entire brake system. Careful not to get brake fluid on your hands and then on your painted surface.
Start with the one 14mm bolt at the front of the trailing arm, remove (Pic 1). Use Liquid Wrench on frozen bolts. Next there are 2 - 17mm bolts (see pic 2) that support the trailing arm in a center bushing. Remove bolts. Use a jack stand to support the arm from below near shocks.
Next remove the bottom 14mm bolt that connects the trailing arm to the lower control arm. Finally remove the top 14mm trailing arm bolt that connect to top support bracket. The trailing arm is now free and unsecured from car. I left the top shorter control arm on my Civic to reduce the chance of decreased handling issues since the parts were from the smaller Del Sol
Caution - Use a jack stand to support trailing arm. This arm with brake drum weights over 20KG so be careful when removing that last bolt.
Now if your calipers are dry from painting and pads are mounted you can now install the new arm with disc brake. Install the 5 bolts in the reverse order of removal. Again I applied Anti-Seize to the bolts and tighten to torque specs. These are the bolts that will be adjusted during a thrust angle alignment for the back end.
Reconnect brake line to caliper hose and tighten. RECHECK all bolts for tightness. Now you need to bleed the brake system. Follow normal instructions for bleeding brake system properly. Bleed line enough to flush all old brake fluid from hose and caliper and remove all air bubbles. I pushed about 8oz of clean fluid thru each line to ensure firm braking power and any sludge or dirt is gone. 4 to 6 brake pedal pushes could drain your master cylinder so watch the level closely and refill often (pic 3). Once all bubble are gone tighten bleeder screw and mount wheel back onto car.
Repeat process for the other side of car. Including parking brake line connection too. Prior to moving car pump brakes till firm and rear calipers grab tight
Caution: Do not drive past 10mph and or on public roads till you have tested stopping power of brakes completely!!!
Test Drive car: Slowly move car and test brakes for stopping power.
Test in forward and reverse motions; listen for squeals, chatter and any smell of grabbing brakes. Test parking brake for holding power and handle and also loose play. Once brakes have been tests on a closed road, test on the main roads and high way speeds; give yourself extra stopping room. Disc will fell different and stop differently then your drums so take it easy till you get the feel for them. Also find a hill to test parking brake holding power on.
Understand that this brake upgrade is a major suspension modification that CAN and WILL affect your cars handling and ride. Get a professional 4 wheel and thrust angle alignment done ASAP, this will ensure your safety and others on the road around you!!
Now sand them, clean them, prep them and finally paint them.
And you can get this!! New Hot disc brakes with even HOTTER colors!!!!
resource form http://www.geocities.com/_nitro_/rea...reardiscs.html
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Originally Posted by na-118
oh dear ****ing lawd. my d*ck did more than move. it jumped out of my pants, and tore the fly open....
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