also its wise to test them at the ECU connectors. if the resistance is OK at the ECU connectors ( same resistance as at the WSS connectors ) then its the ECU. do the test with the ECU connectors disconnected.
oh thats not the srs ecu? will have to check later tonight
will see whats happening
don't happen to have a pinout for the ecu would you? or do i just have to keep probing for luck?
so after an hour of twisting and my new found skill as a contortionist i managed to remove the abs ecu and test the 26p connector for both resistance on the front and rear appear to be in range(750-1050ohms[~915ohms] front and 850-1150ohms[~890ohms] rear)
checking out the manual it says it could be either the sensor or pulser(chipped pulser gear/noise)
admittedly i did remove the gears off a set of drive shafts and hammer them in to my current ones but this had all happened before i even changed them to begin with
i actually pulled off the front wss's last night and there was some metal shaving build up but i did clean it and hold it in place and rotated the sensor a couple times and it appeared clear after a few rotations of the ring so i bolted it back up
checked the rears and they appeared to be clean too
one thing i have noticed is that sometimes the abs light will be off when i start up the car but after i drive down the road it'll feel like the pump is making the pedal stiff for a couple seconds(if i step down hard enough to fight it i'd end up skidding) then it would eventually soften and the abs light would come up
i cleared the dtc and went for a drive and only codes 12 and 14 came up, certainly got me stumped seeing as the abs ecu wiring harness appears to be okay and the sensors themselves appear to be okay
i do have a complete set of dc2 abs sensor and i am running 96spec itr trailing arms/knuckles, should i replace my stock ek4 ones with them?
then again the light had already been there since the beginning before i had done the brake conversion
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