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Engine Oil questions
I know there are other threads as a i searched but wanted to make a thread as i have a few personal questions
Spammer fags telling me to search gtfo
Ok so it's coming up first service since i had my motor put in (b16b)
I've heard alot about royal purple, and it being an awesome engine oil but is it overkill? For a stock b16b with I/H/E
Also what weight oil should i be running 5w-30 or 10w-40
Another thing i noticed, i checked what it has in it already, as high power gave me the bottle to top it up (and i havent had to yet oil levels haven't moved)
It was a bottle of Castrol Edge but its 25w40!
This isnt right is it?
I was either going to replace my oil with Edge 0w-40 or 5w-30
Or Royal Purple 5w-30 or 10w-40
Recommendations and advice on if current oil could of hurt the motor
Car will be tracked yes, and is a daily
Thanks in advance
"Wheels are like bosoms to men, and cars have four of them"
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you would feel the car struggle and fuel consumption is high if you're using a very thick oil. it puts drag on the moving internals of the engine.
use edge 5w30 on your next service. cheap and efficient. if you got the cash and want to go all out, royal purple.
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Throw that bottle of 25w40 away.
Edge 5w-30 is cheap, and I'd treat it like Honda FEO. Good oil, don't expect it to work wonders. The Edge 0w-40 is much better being a Group IV synthetic. Haven't personally used RP, so can't comment.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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 Originally Posted by outatime
you would feel the car struggle and fuel consumption is high if you're using a very thick oil. it puts drag on the moving internals of the engine.
use edge 5w30 on your next service. cheap and efficient. if you got the cash and want to go all out, royal purple.
WEll thats what i thougt car feels like it bogs out but i'm assumming its fromt he stock Eg Si exhaust.. but i ahve noticed i only get around 350kms to 3/4 a tank whereas with my d16a8 i used to get 400-450 on 3/4 of a tank
 Originally Posted by aaronng
Throw that bottle of 25w40 away.
Edge 5w-30 is cheap, and I'd treat it like Honda FEO. Good oil, don't expect it to work wonders. The Edge 0w-40 is much better being a Group IV synthetic. Haven't personally used RP, so can't comment.
The bottle of 25w-40 is as good as gone.. i just hope it wasnt a bandaid to hide a knock or soemthing 
I might try run the 0w-40 and see how the car goes.. hopefully all good
"Wheels are like bosoms to men, and cars have four of them"
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a lot depends on your driving style, usuage pattern, operating temp, drain interval and budget.
0w40 great for late model engines, and Euro high output engines with flexible drain intervals that specifies long life oil demands it, but $$$ and doesnt work any better in our B series than say a 5w40 or 10w40 oil. 0w40 oil great for fast circulation at low temps and fills hydraulic tappets very quickly which your engine doesnt have. I use the 0w40 castrol edge in my AMG Merc which is well suited to it, you are better off trying the 5W30 Castrol Edge and see how that fares. If it doesnt burn any oil after 5000km then keep using it, if it does try Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 and see if that improves. 5W30 would give you the least drag and best throttle response out of the commonly avail/affordable oils you can buy off the shelf. In our b18c7 dc2r I tried castrol 5w30 which burnt about 300ml after 5000km when moderate daily driving and then tried Mobil 1 5w50 which burnt about half that in 5000km and about to try Motul 10W40 300v next to see if it's much different.
I use Castrol 10W60 in my eg5 B16a which I track a lot, it's thick and you lose a lot of throttle response in traffic but best protection at high load and temp conditions at reasonable costs and easy avail; if I use that mainly for road I would use a syn or semi syn 5W40 or 10w40 and change every 5000-7500km.
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Edge 5w-30 is a group III synthetic while 0w-40 is a group IV. On an engine like the b16b which will see close to 9000rpm, I wouldn't trust any less than a group IV. Group III synthetics were formulated to reduce cost. Not for ultimate protection like the group IV (Mobil 1, Motul 8100) and group V (300V)
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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10-40 oem spec royal purple if youre looking for overkill (sure you can rev to 9000k, but hell if its not warmed up right and running race oil, she'll still live a short life...)
but if youre changing it every 5k, why not just use oem feo? if its daily, feo, if youre doing serious track work, then Id spend more dosh on better gear
WTB: EK oem JDM Visors
I love J-Cups
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 Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV
but if youre changing it every 5k, why not just use oem feo? if its daily, feo, if youre doing serious track work, then Id spend more dosh on better gear
For what you pay for FEO now, it does not give good protection for the money you pay. You are better off getting Edge 5w-30 when there is a sale on for $35 per bottle and using that with 5k intervals. FEO is only a mineral oil. It won't be able to compete with even a cheap group III synthetic like Edge 5w-30.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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I think it also depends on the condition of your engine too. If the motor has had some track work done in the pass, been drive hard, or high kms and not very well looked after you can expect leaks from any wore out seal. Because Castrol Egde is very thin oil though is a high flowing oil you can get a leak anywhere with old seals. From the sounds of him using i pretty thick 25w-40 oil maybe his given you that because it was something already in his work shop or his trying to hide a leak.
IMO if you drive it daily then 10w-30 FEO is fine as long as you change it every 5k. Even 10w-40 is fine as long as it gets changed every 5k.
I guess you could try castrol egde 5w-30 but be sure to check your oil levels all time to check for any leaks and to see if it burns up because its pretty thin.
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 Originally Posted by aaronng
Edge 5w-30 is a group III synthetic while 0w-40 is a group IV. On an engine like the b16b which will see close to 9000rpm, I wouldn't trust any less than a group IV. Group III synthetics were formulated to reduce cost. Not for ultimate protection like the group IV (Mobil 1, Motul 8100) and group V (300V)
Is there any easy way to tell by looking at labels on bottles if they are a group III / IV / V product?
or this is something u work out based on the API Service rating?
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 Originally Posted by aaronng
For what you pay for FEO now, it does not give good protection for the money you pay. You are better off getting Edge 5w-30 when there is a sale on for $35 per bottle and using that with 5k intervals. FEO is only a mineral oil. It won't be able to compete with even a cheap group III synthetic like Edge 5w-30.
dollar for dollar, Id take the pepsi challenge and say its better using oem fluids for daily driving than castrol products
WTB: EK oem JDM Visors
I love J-Cups
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 Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV
dollar for dollar, Id take the pepsi challenge and say its better using oem fluids for daily driving than castrol products
isnt that kinda like saying you'd rather drink "home brand" cola over Pepsi Max even IF they were the same price?
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