I've seen k20 cuts on ebay for around 9k sometimes...so proly add around 1.5k for installing.
your dreaming buddy. Check your facts. Im sure there's alot your forgetting. Its an insult to the kswap guys who do it properly and know much really goes into a conversion.
- MTA APPRENTICESHIP PLUS - SHIFT PERFORMANCE - +++++++
ok to this this to 'bed' I have copied a list, one I use on another forum to try and show ppl what is involved in terms of parts alone, then add a 25k budget (as 70% of the parts are made in the usa have to be flown in, then youd have to find a shop that does the installs) so here it is via k20a.org
This is what you want, THE K20/24 SWAP PARTS LIST. Items are also loosely categorized and are meant to be the cheapest possible way to complete the swap. Please keep in mind this may not be 100% accurate to what you want to accomplish but it's damn close! Here it is!
ENGINE/TRANNY (All gaskets/seals are considered "known to be needed" items)
----------------
K-series engine(K24/K20)
K-series tranny(Type-R/RSX-S/RSX Base)
K-series engine harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series charging harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series Alternator(For Engine of Choice)
K-series Starter(For Engine of Choice)
K-series ECU(RSX PRB 02-04) Plus Hondata K-Pro(Or JDM K-series ECU)
CRV Passenger side engine mount(needed for non-CRV K24 swaps)
Header(R-crew/DC/SSR)
Clutch/Flywheel(RSX-S)
RSX Type-S Oxygen Sensor(Primary)
RSX Type-S Knock Sensor(Only if not using RSX-S engine, Or repin stock Knock sensor)
RSX Type-S Clutch Slave Cylinder
RSX Type-S Halfshaft
RSX BASE Axles(For EG only, Swap inner joints) Or...
RSX-S Axles w/ B-series Outers(For EG again, Also rec. swapping inner joints)
RSX Type-S Throttle Body(Or Accord throttle body, depending on engine/intake)
RSX-S Intake Manifold(Or RBC/TSX/Accord)
Karcepts Throttle Body Adapter(only if using RBC)
Engine Mounts(Hybrid/Avid/Hasport)
Harness Conversion(Hybrid/Hasport/Sparkks)
Clutch Line(Hybrid Racing)
RADIATOR/COOLING (This is for using stock radiator)
-----------
Hasport Billet Hose Adapter(For Stock B/D series Fan switch/coolant temp sensor)
Perma-Cool PRM-19120 11"x10" Fan
TOP Rad Hose - RSX Type-S Top Hose(for EK/EG)
BOTTOM Rad Hose - 99-00 Civic Si Top Hose(for EK/EG)
SHIFTER PARTS
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Karcepts Shifter mounting kit
RSX Type-S Shifter Box
RSX-S 02-04 Shifter Cables
Shift Parts to Connect Cables (OEM, easy)
EXHAUST PARTS (Must be custom welded, Can substitute for 2.5")
-----------
Kteller 3" Stainless Piping
3" in/out Muffler
Catalytic Converter if you choose to use one.
FUEL SYSTEM PARTS (Using stock fuel rail, minimum costs)
------------
(www.summitracing.com)
EAR-991945ERL - Converts OEM fuel filter to -6 AN fitting
EAR-165056ERL - Converts OEM fuel rail to -6 AN fitting
RUS-610020 x 4 - Straight -6 AN Hose couplers
SUM-220166N x 3 - Straight cut -6 AN to -6 An hose, Ports on FPR.
RUS-610160 - 90 Degree -6 AN Coupler from fuel filter to FPR.
RUS-632070 - 10 feet -6 AN Hose
AEI-13109 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Walbro 190/255lph Fuel Pump(It's cheap, and worth it - www.hybrid-performance.com)
IF REMOVING POWER STEERING(with no A/C)
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EP3 Idler pulley/bracket
Manual Steering rack, Or Loop P/S rack
K24 = 52" Serpentine Belt(works perfectly on mine)
K20 = 50.5" Serpentine Belt
IF KEEPING POWER STEERING (No A/C - With a current P/S rack)
-------------
K20 PS Pump
Jackson Racing Pulley - P/N: 052-154 (This will clear an EG hood with K20 swap, no hole...only cutting.)
52" Serpentine Belt(only for K20 - K24 = Unknown?)
02-04 RSX High pressure hose
3/8" I.D. hose
Oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries P/N:1007 (for P/S fluid return line)
Fluid NEEDS:
-------
POWER STEERING FLUID - 2 Bottles
DOT3 Brake fluid - 2 Bottles
Coolant 50/50 Mix - 2 Bottles(3 to be safe/cover leaking or spillage)
MTF - 3 Bottles
OIL - 6 Quarts
RANDOM HOSES (Not totaly acurate for ALL swap configurations, keep in mind O.D. and I.D. measurements)
-------
10' 3/16" I.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
10' 1/4" I.D. Hose
10' 3/8" I.D. Hose
5' 3/4" O.D. Hose
5' 1" O.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
MISC BOLTS/Parts (This is mainly used if you buy Engine/Trans apart from one another)
-------
90034-P10-A01 X 6 clutch bolts
90011-PNA-B00 x 8 flywheel bolts
22103-PNA-003 pilot bearing
95701-12060-08 x4 tranny bolts
95701-12085-08 x 2 starter bolts
90027-PND-A00 starter bolt long
90025-PNA-000 bolt
95701-08055-08 x 2
90008-PNA-000 x 2 alternator bolts
90008-PPA-000 bolt
21351-PNB-000 cover for tranny to connect k24a with k20a2 type s tranny(only K24)
95701-06012-08 x 3 bolts
^^^ why spend so much when you can get a dc2r set up for less making 141kw???
Reading fails you.
141kw is at the engine for a b18c.
A b18c with a y80/s80 lsd box makes 110-115kw atw.
And i did say 140+ (PLUS). And the OP did not ask for alternatives. You can get a b18c turbo making heaps more power than any n/a k series swap spending the same amount of money. But each to their own. If i had 20K itll go into a h2b or turbo b series setup.
Too many people think a swap is just takin the old engine and put new one in with new mounts and wiring harness. That only applies if the engine bay of that car was made to accomodate the oem mounts for that engine. ie DC/EG/EK + B series.
As ek1.6 has listed. There is more to it than just in out.
Originally Posted by OMG.JAI xD
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