i always like to let my car idle for at least 5mins, might be a waste of fuel but thats just me. And then i will never really take it over 3k until the engine has been running for about ten mins.
i always like to let my car idle for at least 5mins, might be a waste of fuel but thats just me.
There are credible reasons already posted as to why allowing an engine to idle for an extended period (especially when / from cold) is not a good idea. It's pointless to tell us that you like to do the opposite unless you also give reasons why you think it's a correct thing to do...
Originally Posted by jks24
And then i will never really take it over 3k until the engine has been running for about ten mins.
Good practice, if possibly a little over-cautious.
how about for carb hondas? i know if it dont let it warm up for around 5min,i runs so bad pufiing smoke but when its warm runs fine
Smoke (black?) only when the engine is cold suggests the mixture is overly rich when the engine is cold, so the automatic choke may need adjustment...?
yeh wastes petrol on cold starts,
start and go and normally i keep my revs under 2-2.5 for say the first 10mins sometimes i give a little more say 3.
Once warm im up to 6-7k
Smoke (black?) only when the engine is cold suggests the mixture is overly rich when the engine is cold, so the automatic choke may need adjustment...?
yeah mate black smoke sounds like a rotor for around 5min then after that runs perfect again>?
Quote oh dear ****ing lawd. my d*ck did more than move. it jumped out of my pants, and tore the fly open....
yeah mate black smoke sounds like a rotor for around 5min then after that runs perfect again>?
"Rotor"?
Automatic chokes tend to be less than reliable and generally not a good thing (even when they're working as intended they tend to take too long to lean out the mixture, at least in my experience). Choked carbs tend to liberally wash down the bore walls with petrol (more so than EFI on cold cycle), which washes the oil film away (causing ring / piston / bore wear) as well as diluting the oil with fuel.
You might want to look into converting the choke to manual operation? It might still(?) be possible to buy cable kits to do this from auto accesories stores.
You mean like a modified Wankel, i.e. with a relatively high and 'hunting' idle?
That would be typical of an automatic choke holding the butterfly valve a bit open to create a high idle speed, but where the mixture is way too rich causing the idle speed to fluctuate (i.e. speed up and slow down in a rapidly 'hunting' cycle).
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