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  1. #85
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by jfaust View Post
    hi all,

    - my driver side actuator is stuffed up. cannot use my remote key to lock or open.
    Very common problem unfortunately. If you still have warranty, get it replaced. Otherwise, you will be up to some $$$ to get it replaced. The door trim will have to be removed to replace the actuator. On my Euro, the driver's side actuator is sticky.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  2. #86
    Team YCD President Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Earth
    Car:
    Honbaru Yum Cha
    For my case, it's the front passenger side actuator that is sticky, it doesn't work when I use central locking button on the driver door but it works when I use the remote......
    Last edited by EuroAccord13; 19-08-2009 at 01:43 PM.
    146.8Kws @ Wheels Diesel CL9 Euro (SOLD), 2009 Honda VT Shadow, NC PRHT Mazda MX-5, Boxing SG Forester, Honda Civic Sport
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    Team Yum Cha Daily - The Dim Sum Revolution

    OzHonda's Public Relations Guru

  3. #87
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by EuroAccord13 View Post
    For my case, it's the front passenger side actuator is sticky, it doesn't work when I use central locking button on the driver door but it works when I use the remote......
    I wonder if the wiring from the central locking button to the actuator has somehow gotten loose/corroded. If the actuator is stuffed, it won't work no matter if you use the central locking button or the remote.
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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  4. #88
    to open the door i have to actually stick the key in to open it. so now i have no use in using the remote central locking....

  5. #89
    My drivers side is getting worse. There is some on ebay.....but i dun want to fork out the money just yet.

  6. #90
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    2006 Euro Luxury
    Quote Originally Posted by unity View Post
    Hey ticktock, my dealer gave me a 2006 Euro for the day and I gave it 2 cold starts and it felt exactly the same as my car. So my conclusion is that it's normal, although it is a little annoying. Wait till summer and you won't notice it anymore.
    Thanks unity. I'd actually decided not to worry about it as I thought it might be normal. Cheers for the confirmation.

    I still need to get some rattles sorted out though (seems to be an unfortunate feature of the euros). I've got a grinding rattle coming from around the the left side of the centre console or near the glove box when I drive on rougher bitumen or higher speeds on highways. Also a strange tapping noise coming from behind me but no idea precisely where lol. I hope the dealer can fix them under warranty on my next service.

  7. #91
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by ticktock View Post
    Thanks unity. I'd actually decided not to worry about it as I thought it might be normal. Cheers for the confirmation.

    I still need to get some rattles sorted out though (seems to be an unfortunate feature of the euros). I've got a grinding rattle coming from around the the left side of the centre console or near the glove box when I drive on rougher bitumen or higher speeds on highways. Also a strange tapping noise coming from behind me but no idea precisely where lol. I hope the dealer can fix them under warranty on my next service.
    Tapping noise is from the rear parcel shelf. A little lithium grease into the correct spot and it disappears for quite a few years. Mine hasn't returned after 4 years. Put some thick lithium grease into the spot with the red arrow and make sure you push it in properly using a blade or a strip of cardboard.

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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  8. #92
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    2006 Euro Luxury
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Tapping noise is from the rear parcel shelf. A little lithium grease into the correct spot and it disappears for quite a few years. Mine hasn't returned after 4 years. Put some thick lithium grease into the spot with the red arrow and make sure you push it in properly using a blade or a strip of cardboard.
    Thanks aaronng, I'll give that a go! Though I had a quick look there and am not sure where the tapping noise can be coming from as it all looks and feels quite sturdy. Is it from those two bits of metal moving against each other? Wouldn't expect a tap noise from that..

  9. #93
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by ticktock View Post
    Thanks aaronng, I'll give that a go! Though I had a quick look there and am not sure where the tapping noise can be coming from as it all looks and feels quite sturdy. Is it from those two bits of metal moving against each other? Wouldn't expect a tap noise from that..
    The spot weld between the sheets of metal is really poor. If you look just between the gap and the trim, you'll the spot weld. Compare the left side with the right side. Left has like one and a half welds, while the right side has two full welds.

    Tapping is when it is still mild. At first, I thought it was a loose cable or plug in the roof. It gets worse by changing to stiffer suspension, the tapping turns into a metal creaking sound.
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    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  10. #94
    Ozhonda Supporter Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    2008 Luxury Sat Nav
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    The spot weld between the sheets of metal is really poor.
    The spot welds over the whole fuc*ing car is really poor. I'm struggling to get mine fixed (yes, spot weld issues in the A Frame also).

  11. #95
    Quote Originally Posted by ticktock View Post
    Thanks aaronng, I'll give that a go! Though I had a quick look there and am not sure where the tapping noise can be coming from as it all looks and feels quite sturdy. Is it from those two bits of metal moving against each other? Wouldn't expect a tap noise from that..
    let me know how you go. I have a tapping from the rear as well, especially over bumps. I thought it might be number plate rattling.

  12. #96
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Darwin
    Car:
    Lexus IS-F
    Quote Originally Posted by The X Man View Post
    The spot welds over the whole fuc*ing car is really poor. I'm struggling to get mine fixed (yes, spot weld issues in the A Frame also).
    Seriously man, why don't you just sell your car and be done with it?
    Honda Accord Euro CU2 / Lexus IS-F

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