Right, pic time....they're pretty crappy as it's hard to take larger pictures with so little room to work. I may as Rod suggested he plans on doing, try to take some more tomorrow when I climb under to check the torque.
Slugoid, I'm running 38psi front, 37psi rear. It's been a long time since I've played with pressures (I've used 40psi all round before) so I might give it another go.
After the drive to and from work it really is funThe rear is a bit more "alive" over unsettled roads, but not to the point of being uncontrollable or dangerous. Those familiar with Brisbane will know the on-ramp from the Centenary Hwy to the Ipswich Motorway heading towards Ipswich, well this morning it was a blast! A VZ Commodore was infront of me on the inside lane and his rear threatened to step out twice as he was pushing quite hard, yet I was still able to close and hold a 2/3rd car length from his bumper, and I felt was holding back.
Yeah baboo, I used the rubber bushes, mounts and washes supplied with the new bar. Re-used the bolts for the mounts, and nuts for the endlinks.
Poly bushes on the Whiteline bar aye? Damn I should've got the Progress adjustable sway! j/k. I may look at getting some poly bushes later when I feel I want it a fraction firmer, but for now the supplied rubber ones will do.
I honestly doubt that there'd be any significant difference between the bars in the performance department short of doing skid pad tests with a g-sensor. The smaller diameter of the Whiteline bar could easily be compensated by using a steel with a slightly higher stiffness which is what Whiteline may've done.
learner I did the install myself. It really is very easy to do. (Though my neck and arms are a little sore from working in a confined space. I reversed my car up our sloped drive so the rear wheels were on the flat and level garage floor, so the front was lower than the rear and I had enough room to slide underneath. If you're claustrophobic you may want to use jack stands or ramps. I honestly couldn't be bothered with them. I kissed the exhaust with my face a few times
There's only two tricks to the install:
(1) The nut on the end links require anchoring. Insert an Allen Key(Hex head) in the centre of the threaded shaft to hold the shaft stationary, then with the other hand I used a 14mm ring spanner to remove the nut. Installation is the reverse, once you've got it tight to the point of torquing it that last bit, swap to a 14mm socket and torque ot up
(2) As seen in one of the photo's there's one nut on the left mount that you can't get a socket on due to the flange of the exhaust and muffler sections. You could unclip the muffler from it's rubber mounts and swing it down, but I didn't bother. Just used a 12mm ring spanner and a hell of a lot of force. If you have a "crows foot" attachment for your socket wrench you'll be fine.
Right endlink with OEM Sway(top of picture)
Right mount with OEM Sway
Left mount with OEM Sway (looking outboard)
Left endlink with OEM Sway
Sway Bar comparison 1
Sway Bar Comparison 2
Comptech Installed Left Endlink
Comptech Installed Left mount (looking inboard)
Comptech Bar Installed
Comptech Installed Right Endlink(top) (Enkei wheel mark bottom)
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