increasing throttle response? flywheel or throttle body?

[joyride]

not yet lol. i'm sort of hijacknig the thread but its still about increasing throttle response.

lets say you have a carb motor. to allow more airflow into the throat you remove the choke throttle. if you do so, would the engine suffer from a cold start? wouldnt the remedy for this would be to say, get some sheet metal and cover the throat so there is more pressure in the carb to force more fuel into the carb?
i think i wrote it correctly...
well once the engine is warm you can just take that sheet metal off and away you go...?

[JohnL]

lets say you have a carb motor. to allow more airflow into the throat you remove the choke throttle.

IMO with most carbs any airflow gain will be minimal at best, and most probably undetectable.

BTW, it's not a "choke throttle", it's a choke plate. 'Throttle' is a term that relates purely to the butterfly valve that controls airflow to control power output.

if you do so, would the engine suffer from a cold start?

Yes.

wouldnt the remedy for this would be to say, get some sheet metal and cover the throat so there is more pressure in the carb to force more fuel into the carb?
i think i wrote it correctly...

'Correct' would be; 'reduced pressure in the venturi', or maybe; 'a greater pressure differential between the pressure in the venturi and in the fuel reseviour'. Expressed either way, this results in more fuel flow as atmospheric pressure pushes the fuel through the jets.

well once the engine is warm you can just take that sheet metal off and away you go...?

Mate, so much hassle, a complete pain. In any case, that's what the choke plate does, either automatically or at the simple pull / push of a knob on the dash...

If you really have a need to get rid of the choke plate then fit a Weber or Dellorto which have a cold start fuel enrichment jet instead of a choke plate.

[beeza]

The reason I couldn't get WOT value or if I set WOT,CT was 0.80,was because gearbox cable was too tight.My car being an automatic has the gearbox cable was too tight,therefore restricting movement of the accelerator cable!



I loosened off the cable and got the values straight away!

Tps thread updated!

[joyride]

thanks johnL for your answers

[beeza]

Throttle cables should be adjusted to have just a little bit of free play at CT, but at WOT there should be no significant load on the cable nor on the TB WOT stop, i.e. some part of the pedal should hit a stop (under the pedal pad or at the top near where the cable is attached) just as the TB WOT stop is contacted.

So when you put your foot down it the voltage reading should go directly to and stop at 4.5V solidly?

Mine kinda is pushing from 4.43 or so till 4.5 and even goes over too 4.55...

So it should STOP at 4.5 when it contacts the WOT plate?

If so I would set WOT at 4.5 upon contact of the WOT plate then set CT via the TS yeah?

[JohnL]

So when you put your foot down it the voltage reading should go directly to and stop at 4.5V solidly?

Yes. If you're having to push the pedal hard to reach the max output voltage then I suspect the pedal might be hitting the carpet before the throttle wheel hits the TS on the TB?

If the TB TS is coming into play before the pedal hits it's stop, then when you push harder on the pedal the cable, throttle wheel, spindle shaft and shaft bearings may become excessively loaded (wear and tear).

Mine kinda is pushing from 4.43 or so till 4.5 and even goes over too 4.55...

Erratic voltages at the CT and WOT might suggest wear in the spindle and / or bearings...?

So it should STOP at 4.5 when it contacts the WOT plate?

That's the number I kept seeing when researching on the net...

If so I would set WOT at 4.5 upon contact of the WOT plate then set CT via the TS yeah?

That's what I'd do...