ahh ok, well regardless when i filled up i added exactly 35 litres which is what I based the mileage off. So either my fuel gauge is off a bit and showing empty when there's actually 10litres left or I'm letting it click off too early
i read that putting a vtec light, sucks current/voltage away from solenoid so vtec doesn't go as hard as it would without it? is there any electrical physics behind this theory?
i read that putting a vtec light, sucks current/voltage away from solenoid so vtec doesn't go as hard as it would without it? is there any electrical physics behind this theory?
Nah pretty sure thats not true. AFAIK there is simply a wire going from the ECU to the solenoid telling it to engage or not. It doesn't power the thing... someone correct me if im wrong.
Its similar to how you have a wire going from the head unit to a power aerial. COnnected up, broken off.
yeah so basically the solenoid is either on/off same as a starter motor solenoid i guess (pretty sure they work by having a little bridge which flicks on with current, off without). oil pressure is used to tell the ECU that the vtec solenoid should be turned on to enable VTEC. So in order to screw up the VTEC you would have to be interupting the 12v needed to turn on the solenoid. Someone else could probably explain that better or correct it
i read that putting a vtec light, sucks current/voltage away from solenoid so vtec doesn't go as hard as it would without it? is there any electrical physics behind this theory?
Is that similar to when the A/C is on the car is noticeably slower? But I'd think that even though the LED is 12v, it's such a low current it shouldn't be too bad. Not that I know much about electronics and such but when I chucked in LED indicators they blink like buggery now. Atleast x2 what they incandescent ones blink at.
Is that similar to when the A/C is on the car is noticeably slower? But I'd think that even though the LED is 12v, it's such a low current it shouldn't be too bad. Not that I know much about electronics and such but when I chucked in LED indicators they blink like buggery now. Atleast x2 what they incandescent ones blink at.
i think that is due to the lower resistances in LEDs in comparison to normal halogens globes, hence the quicker blinking speed. i put them in yesterday for a bit, and they were blinking so fast - bit like a strobe light! haha.
according to your calculations, you're getting 5.61L/100km. that's is awesome! hehehe.. well done! and yes, i can keep it at 100km/hr without the light coming on. it's only when i'm at about 105-108km/hr thats when the light comes on regardless due to my revs being over 3.3krpm.
Great info!... Damn... 108kmh is still under 110kmh highway limit.
Should I choose low speed in 12v which save petrol but taking longer for syd-mel trip? Or should I choose 110 kmh speed in 16v, uses more petrol but faster to get to destination?
I will choose 110kmh ... hang on, how about putting in vtec controller. Therefore you can set it to switch on after hitting 115kmh.
hang on, how about putting in vtec controller. Therefore you can set it to switch on after hitting 115kmh.
Would be great
thats actually what i originally wanted to do i think they are only like $80? Yeah you could set it to only come on after 110 or 115.
bah $5 led will do me i'll just drive slower. I remember reading somewhere too that in any car driving at 100 instead of 110 saves a heap of fuel can't remember how much it was and cbf googling :P Anyway, driving at 100 coupled with only 12 valves would save a fair bit imo
Edit: here's basically what i was thinking of...
Want to save an easy 12 -15%? You can if you drive at 100 km/h instead of 110 km/h. When you double your speed the drag or energy required to push you through the air goes up 4 times.
SiR = Sport injection Racing
Originally Posted by Spoon SiRG
i think they are only like $80? Yeah you could set it to only come on after 110 or 115. 
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