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  1. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by Mugen_Retro View Post
    I am thinking to get a new set coil as well, am sitting on D2 and it is no good, clocking sound heard quite loud from driver seat. not sure wats going on.
    Appart from the money, what is the suspension u guys always dreaming for ur rb1?
    if u want to explore new products, would suggest the following (pls note i've never experienced flwg products but was on my shopping list before):

    JIC Magic
    http://www.jic-magic.co.jp/suspension.html
    http://www.jic-magic.com/ViewProduct...?ProductID=226

    Tababe SusTec Five/Seven with TEAS:
    http://www.rd-tanabe.com/lineup/sust...ive/index.html
    http://www.rd-tanabe.com/lineup/sust...ven/index.html

    My dream coilover will be Tanabe SusTec Pro AirCobra if i can sell mine at decent price:
    http://www.rd-tanabe.com/lineup/sust...bra/index.html
    Last edited by AusAccord; 25-10-2009 at 08:01 AM.

  2. #50
    Evo, any updates on ur brand new coil? install it yet?

  3. #51
    Aus, what decent prize r u thinking for ur ohlins? haha..

  4. #52
    Member Array
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    Jan 2007
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    Car:
    06 TC'd RB1
    Quote Originally Posted by Mugen_Retro View Post
    Evo, any updates on ur brand new coil? install it yet?
    Coils went in as planned, been driving around on it for a week + now. To me it is more comfortable compared to my previous set due to lower spring rates and has better dampening. No change in height as I maintained the old height of the car. But for the price I got it for, I think it's bang for buck.
    Last edited by evolution; 31-10-2009 at 02:39 AM.
    Old man that drives slow cars

  5. #53
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Ohthatsit
    bumping an old thread.

    did you guys have to change anything for the front regarding camber when fitting coilovers? or the natural camber after lowing is ok?

    thanks
    GD3 -> EP3 -> RB3

    FS Rays nuts etc

  6. #54
    i think depends on the spec of your front wheel man. aggressive width and offset need guard works plus camber setting. you can always get a set of SPC camber bolt for adjustment but result to max/min from -1.5 deg/+1.5 deg

  7. #55
    Member Array
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    Jan 2007
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    Car:
    06 TC'd RB1
    I installed SPC camber bolts in the front and SPC camber arms on the rear from the outset because my main aim was to ensure that my tyres didn't wear unevenly. So far it seems to be working pretty well.
    Old man that drives slow cars

  8. #56
    Member Array
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    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Ohthatsit
    thanks AusAccord and evolution.

    so part no. 67135 -1.5 to +1.5 works well, we don't need +1.5 to +3.0 right?

    http://www.spcalignment.com/specprod...c&task=details
    GD3 -> EP3 -> RB3

    FS Rays nuts etc

  9. #57
    Member Array
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    Jan 2007
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    06 TC'd RB1
    I think the part number is 67125.

    I don't know if it will be enough because it also depends on what wheels you are getting and if more camber is required to fit them.

    The lowest I have gone is 1 finger fender gap all round and the front camber ball joint (sorry not camber bolts, got it mixed up with the ones on my Civic) was set at about -1. My rolling spec is 18x7.5 +42 with 225/45 tyres.
    Old man that drives slow cars

  10. #58
    Member Array
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    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Ohthatsit
    i will try to fit my 18x7.5+48 front and 18x7.5+42 back initially and planning to have 1 finger gap as well. if i have spare cash i might go 19x8.5+38/4x front.

    evolution, with your setup, do you scrap anything on the road/speed bump??

    thanks
    Last edited by Philip Lee; 02-03-2011 at 04:27 PM.
    GD3 -> EP3 -> RB3

    FS Rays nuts etc

  11. #59
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    VIC
    Car:
    06 TC'd RB1
    You won't be needing much -ve camber on those 18" specs, in fact think the
    19" specs should be fine as well.. The SPC camber ball joints will do the
    job.

    Generally I was able to get around most places without much issue except
    steep inclines(when going up) and steep slopes (when going down) and large
    humps. It takes a bit of getting used to.

    The underside of my front Modulo lip is pretty scratched (but no cracks)
    due to steep slopes and huge humps, I have scrapped my front under arm bar
    a fair few times due to the super huge hump at my children's child care and
    a few here and there on other huge humps, not sure if I would scrap without the under arm bar thought. HKS exhaust resonator scrapped like there was no tomorrow, but that was put right very quickly with hotdogs.

    I have since raise my car up a bit to 1 1/2 finger gap front and 2 finger
    rear. and I haven't scrapped on anything plus I tend to take it slow when I
    think the car will scrap + I snake around big humps

    here is a pic of my undercarriage, I think the front under arm bar might havesaved
    the car from more serious stuff.

    Old man that drives slow cars

  12. #60
    Member Array
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    Aug 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Ohthatsit
    wow so much scratch on the bars. definitely saved the chassis by the look of it.

    thanks heaps for your comments. very much appreciated.
    GD3 -> EP3 -> RB3

    FS Rays nuts etc

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