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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    EG2, GD1, CL9
    thanks 90LAN.

    and Trav, it has a no brand aftermarket header with stock everthing else atm. so im considering stock it all out. have got an audm dc2r header lying around. but i presume some might say there's no point chucking on the dc2r's?

    any negetives about a b18 header on b16?

  2. #14
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    Word. Ditch the crap one and rock the DC2R one man. You may have to mod your OEM cat with a bigger 2.5" flange. Im pretty sure the AUDM DC2R header collector is 2.5", i could be wrong though. If its only 2.25" it should bolt on. Maybe someone can verify?

    Gains or losses would be minimal either way I think. With the DC2R header at least you could rock the OEM heat sheild if thats what you want
    oh wrd!

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    JDM PARTS BRISBANE
    Car:
    EURO LUX
    aussie dc2r headers are shit the collector is only like 2inch

    throw it away theres a thread on this already

    get a good set of jdm/usdm 421 with 2.5 inch collector

  4. #16
    i am thinking for rmf norrow header replica 2.5' for my b16a...do you have any experience from this header?? any suggestion??

  5. #17
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Too big IMO. B16A doesn't really have much torque and I think 2.5" would only make it lose some of what it has down low.

    2.25" for B16A if naturally aspirated

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    JDM PARTS BRISBANE
    Car:
    EURO LUX
    Quote Originally Posted by dougie_504 View Post
    Too big IMO. B16A doesn't really have much torque and I think 2.5" would only make it lose some of what it has down low.

    2.25" for B16A if naturally aspirated
    will all know it doesnt have torque
    you dont drive vtecs in that rev range

    if you use a good 421 header and not some thing cheap

    you will be surprise how it feels

    he is actually talking about the header not the cat back

  7. #19
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Fair enough that he was talking about the header and not the cat, but I don't need your points on torque and headers.

    I use RS*R 4-2-1 headers on my EF8 and Holley 4-2-1 headers on my EH9 so I know that it can feel nice with a non-egay brand.

    If you read my previous post you'd see that I was recommending that he use 4-2-1 header as opposed to 4-1 headers because he'll be driving around the suburbs and therefore won't be sticking to VTEC all day, will he?

    But if you're going to be doing daily driving then you may as well have 2.25" 4-2-1 headers to retain as much low-end power as possible, otherwise you'll just be slugging around in peak hour.

    2.25 are just as easy to source as 2.5 so why wouldn't you make it a consistent size throughout the whole system?

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    JDM PARTS BRISBANE
    Car:
    EURO LUX
    Quote Originally Posted by dougie_504 View Post
    Fair enough that he was talking about the header and not the cat, but I don't need your points on torque and headers.

    I use RS*R 4-2-1 headers on my EF8 and Holley 4-2-1 headers on my EH9 so I know that it can feel nice with a non-egay brand.

    If you read my previous post you'd see that I was recommending that he use 4-2-1 header as opposed to 4-1 headers because he'll be driving around the suburbs and therefore won't be sticking to VTEC all day, will he?

    But if you're going to be doing daily driving then you may as well have 2.25" 4-2-1 headers to retain as much low-end power as possible, otherwise you'll just be slugging around in peak hour.

    2.25 are just as easy to source as 2.5 so why wouldn't you make it a consistent size throughout the whole system?

    because the oem jdm 2.5 inch is a bolt on application for most jdm exhaust so no need for any modification
    the header area is where you make the power having a 2.25 inch cat is too small in my books
    so no need for any modification
    i notice you dont lose nay low down torque with the right setup
    or you must have a good butt dyno
    try a 2.5 inch cat you will be surprised

  9. #21
    I put JDM 4-1, and JDM DC2R cat onto my stock audm ITR catback, modified to fit. All restrictions were cut off and widest diameter piping were welded in place of the restrictions.

    I noticed improvements basically through the rev range. VTEC was louder.

    Now i've had it for a while, it feels like normal again. Look at my thread in the Integra section (search by my name) and u'll see the diff in audm dc2r headers VS jdm dc2r headers.

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CB7> EM1>MPS3
    Will a JDM 2.5inch cat bolt up to the OEM catback on a EK4 in australia? Or in my case an EM1?
    I MISS VTEC.... BOOST is OVERATED lol

  11. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by CB7_OWNER View Post
    Will a JDM 2.5inch cat bolt up to the OEM catback on a EK4 in australia? Or in my case an EM1?
    I am leaning towards negative. The JDM cat is too short compared to the aussie cat. also the flanges look the same, but the bolts/holes dont line up.

    I faced this problem on my dc2r.

    NICE LINK:
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124325

    P.S. congrats on the move from cb7 to em1. cb7s are great cruisers but the need for manual and a bit of speed comes after a while of auto drone.
    Last edited by SiReal; 05-01-2010 at 09:12 AM.

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    JDM PARTS BRISBANE
    Car:
    EURO LUX
    jap stuff wont bolt up to any aussie stuff

    only thing is the axle backs if its the correct car because they are all the same size

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