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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2 Squared
    If you don't get it with headwork, change the final drive - you'll have a ball.

  2. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by beeza View Post
    Headwork isn't a must is it? That's what the OP wants to know.

    Can he reach his goals of 105-110kw's without the headwork or should he do the headwork anyways?


    Mate, you got it in one

  3. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by fatboyz39 View Post
    Leave the retainers OEM. They can handle 9000rpm.

    Upgrade the springs. You power goals will be achieve easily.
    Thanks.

    So you would agree that head work won't be necessary?

    I can simply drop in the cams + springs and be done with it.

    Might also upgrade the intake manifold and throttle body.

  4. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Chr1s View Post
    If you don't get it with headwork, change the final drive - you'll have a ball.
    Sweet.. As i'm running a 4.9FD.

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Quote Originally Posted by DD2 View Post
    Mate, you got it in one
    Thanks mate,I got a knack for that sorta thing

    I remember being told,'think of the final drive as a torque multiplier'

  6. #18
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    Quote Originally Posted by DD2 View Post
    Thanks.

    So you would agree that head work won't be necessary?

    I can simply drop in the cams + springs and be done with it.

    Might also upgrade the intake manifold and throttle body.
    What kind of headwork? A good service and valve job should do the job just fine.

    Bigger t/b and intake manifold will help.

  7. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by fatboyz39 View Post
    What kind of headwork? A good service and valve job should do the job just fine.

    Bigger t/b and intake manifold will help.
    Any kind I guess, unless it was going to make a day & night difference with performance.

    Based on what i've discovered these cams should yield some noticeable gains and still remain fairly reliable and close to stock driveability. They're only slightly more agressive than CTR.

    My plan now is to install the cams with the springs, some adjustable cam gears, an ITR intake manifold & throttle body and then tune.

    My goal of 105-110kw peak with more midrange, the 4.9FD and in the light EG shell...... should be happy days.

    Well here's hoping anyway

  8. #20
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    Similar setup when we had b16a. Fun car to drive with the b16a. Dont be scare to rev it. We had it turned over 9200rpm with standard rods.

  9. #21
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    I don't think you'll need a new TB or IM, they will breathe fine if you give them a hard clean with some Suburu engine cleaner, will breathe like a new car.

    As for head work it's not necessary but I think the whole idea lots of people have is that if you're going inside the head you may as well do everything at once. Especially if you're going to mod it again, because you may as well get it tune'd once it's all done inside, rather than going piece by piece.

    - Clean
    - Valves
    - Valve springs
    - Retainers
    - Cam shafts
    - Cam gears
    - ? Port job

    Wish you the best with this project mate. Show us how it comes out

  10. #22
    Hmm.. I just googled the Subaru engine cleaner... looks interesting. Where would one buy such a thing?

    In terms of the headwork, I’m thinking the head won't need to come off if I’m just replacing the cams & springs. With the right tools they can be installed as is from what I understand. Should be relatively cheap labour wise (I hope).

    I'm still gathering parts, so will be a short while before I have them installed.

    But I’ll be sure to post my results.

  11. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by fatboyz39 View Post
    Similar setup when we had b16a. Fun car to drive with the b16a. Dont be scare to rev it. We had it turned over 9200rpm with standard rods.
    9200rpm.. WOW.. would have loved to hear that.

    From memory the factory B16A ECU will cut out at 8700.

    What's normally the easiest way to increase this?

    Would a stock ITR ECU slot right in?

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    legtec @2psi
    if your going to do all that work \\you should buy a tuneable ecu


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