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  1. #49
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    May 2008
    Location
    Sydney.NSW.AU
    Car:
    Mazda 3
    u dont really have to, but if its all fked up then ur better off changing it.

  2. #50
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    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EM1 -> DC2R
    thanks,

    does any one know if its the same size washer as oil sump?

  3. #51
    Needs more time... Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Blog Entries
    12
    The oil sump bolt is metal with a metal crush washer.

    The radiator drain plug is plastic and doesn't use a metal washer IIRC.
    Got a question? Check out the FAQ - http://www.ozhonda.com/go/faq

  4. #52
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    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EM1 -> DC2R
    isn't there a drain bolt for coolant on the block next to the engine number stamp?

  5. #53
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    Aug 2003
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    Sydney
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    Ohh you're talking about that bolt. I'm not too sure to be honest.
    Got a question? Check out the FAQ - http://www.ozhonda.com/go/faq

  6. #54
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    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    syd
    Car:
    560hp
    not the same size, ****loads bigger.
    lol,.

  7. #55
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    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    DA9
    I did this DIY today, great advice, but its made my engine heat up even quicker than before. I loosened the bleed bolt on the top radiator hose but nothing came out, took the bolt completely off. Any thoughts?
    Bought from: Taleb Tyres, scyt7e

  8. #56
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    BNE
    Car:
    DC2 K20
    tighten the bleeder up, close radiator cap rev the car so it builds up pressure then there shud be coolant/bubbles coming out once u loosen it
    FS thread OMG heaps of parts for dc2/eg/ek wrecking eg vti!: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111753

  9. #57
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    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    DA9
    THanks, I'll give that a shot. Going to flush it out and try again. Replacing the thermostat while I'm at it.
    Bought from: Taleb Tyres, scyt7e

  10. #58
    9. Loosen the bleed bolt (12mm) at the top of the uppermost radiator hose until there are no airbubbles coming out and just a steady stream of coolant. When you tighten it back up again, make sure you don't over tighten it (9.8Nm is fine). The pic below is for a DOHC-non VTEC engine and is located behind/underneath the dizzy. For SOHC engines it is located on top of the radiator hose at the front of the engine above where the engine number is stamped.
    Can you just run the car with the radiator cap off till there is no air bubbles coming out?

  11. #59
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    BNE
    Car:
    DC2 K20
    Quote Originally Posted by InVtecWeTrust View Post
    Can you just run the car with the radiator cap off till there is no air bubbles coming out?
    yes you can just leave the car running till the fans turn on
    FS thread OMG heaps of parts for dc2/eg/ek wrecking eg vti!: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111753

  12. #60
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Eastern Melbourne
    Car:
    EG3
    wow!! this is a great info!! thanks alot..however, you might wanna put some words in bold especially in tightening the bleeder bolt. As I did not read cafefully (my fault), hence I broke the housing! :P but manage to get a 2nd hand housing for a cheap price. But manage to learn frm mistakes.
    However, thanks for your info again!

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