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  1. #169
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    so which oil pick up would be used? and are you able to use B16/B18 aftermarket/OEM oil sump?
    [h=Massive EG6/DC2 Part Out (majority brand new)
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...y-brand-new%29]2[/h]

  2. #170
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    Quote Originally Posted by riruiz_88 View Post
    so which oil pick up would be used? and are you able to use B16/B18 aftermarket/OEM oil sump?
    Standard OEM b20 oil pickup with B20 sump. B20 and B16a share the same sump.

    You can also run B18c/type R sump.

  3. #171
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    very nice. thanks for quick answer.
    [h=Massive EG6/DC2 Part Out (majority brand new)
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...y-brand-new%29]2[/h]

  4. #172
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Quote Originally Posted by 02gzm View Post
    Heading back to costs for a sec.

    Was quoted $320 for the complete bottom end from my local parts guys in Brisbane about an hour ago while picking up some other bits and pieces

    Also what would the average engineering/mod plating costs be for a displacement increase?
    If anyone has an estimate that'd be great.

    My point exactly bro.

    If you pay more than $500 then you've been jibbed. And if you've paid $800-1000 then sure, it's not like that's where the most of the build money is going to go, but that wasted $300-500 could get you a new CAI or a dyno tune.

    In VIC it's around $600-1000 for an engineering cert (my mate is doing one right now for his B18CR in ED9) but this depends on whether or not you need to do extra work to satisfy their sadistic need for perfection/registration at VicRoads...

  5. #173
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    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EK
    Interesting thread to say the least, but as for b20 second hand prices, if the engine is to be stripped and fully rebuilt, then the condition of the engine you would be starting with wouldnt be of much concern, as for engines with low km's that may just have the pistons notched or go back into a crv for a replacment, thats where a engine would and should be a higher price.

    But as has been said, how many 150+ dyno's are on here, not many, and how many people ( i know a fair few now ) have attempted to strap one together with what they would consider a decent parts list and fallen well short, as for 160+ i believe my engine is the only B series on here with a dyno sheet to back it up, not to say they might not be out there, but they are very few and far between.

  6. #174
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    N/A B-Series, you mean?

  7. #175
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    Quote Originally Posted by Slaz View Post
    But as has been said, how many 150+ dyno's are on here, not many, and how many people ( i know a fair few now ) have attempted to strap one together with what they would consider a decent parts list and fallen well short, as for 160+ i believe my engine is the only B series on here with a dyno sheet to back it up, not to say they might not be out there, but they are very few and far between.
    Dyno numbers are one thing and running the times is another. Anyone can make xxx amount on the dyno. There is too many variables when it comes to dyno number. Our B20vtec could make easily over the 160kw mark if we strap on street tyres and reduce the camber from-ve 3.5 deg. But to simulate the load on the engine, we opted to dyno using semi slicks

  8. #176
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    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EK
    I could agree more with you Benny but it was strapped in using a much less favorable ramp rate or mode then some use , was spinning 17inch wheels and tyres. 2.5 deg, on pump fuel with a cat fitted and a 38 degree day with a 3 hour tune, not bad considering.

    The point i was trying to make was alot out there dont make the 150kw mark at all and they are easier said then done and often come at a cost much higher then some claim it can be done for, just look at your asking price for your engine considering the parts included, not so budget is it.
    Last edited by Slaz; 18-01-2010 at 09:05 PM.

  9. #177
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    legtec @2psi
    Leo whens your new engine going to be ready?.

    In terms of intake manifold vs ITB's which makes the most torque and kw reading?.


  10. #178
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast,QLD
    Car:
    Eg Civic
    itbs make better torque afaik
    "Wheels are like bosoms to men, and cars have four of them"

  11. #179
    id like to ask about exhaust system.
    let say if i do b18c type r stock head internal with stock b20.
    just plan to make 2.5inch b pipe. will it result in power lose if i go without resonator and without catalitic? just header go straight pipe to the muffler? or do i need to run resonator to avoid top end power lose?

  12. #180
    apart from being illegal on public roads, it will be fine...

    resonators are simply to change the noise, nothing to do with power AFAIK...
    B20VTEC - since 2002

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