Anyone sound deadened the crap out of an EG?

**Migoreng_Noodles** · 27-01-2010 02:58 PM

I've recently come to the conclusion that my beloved EG will most likely never be the stripped out, roll caged, fixed bucket seat B18CR racer I once dreamed of. Well, not in the forseeable future.

The opposing side of this is, I still love my EG. 600KM from 35L tank keeps me happy and call me a rer-tard but I think it's actually a really good looking car. The aircon is freezing and the tint keeps it cool so it's actually a perfect daily driver.

To the question: Is it worth sound deadening the EG or will it always a thin rice rocket? I was thinking 2x bulk packets of Dynamat Extreme ($220x2) and new black carpet with thick knox felt underlay (same thing as 53XXX guy did). 2x front doors solidified with Dynamat (service holes sealed up), Dynamat on the floors and also all over the boot. Maybe Paint on deadener under the arches if I could be bothered (this would be cheap though).

Would the above drastically change the feel of the car? Both in a car audio sense and Lexus kind of way? All up, doing my own labor it should come to roughly $550 in parts (SD, Underlay and new Carpet).

I have a decent setup in it at the moment but it's obvious the thin metal and loud cabin noise is making it sound not so good.

Cheers

**twing** · 27-01-2010 03:46 PM

I went to that path with mine too, definitely worth it.
No point of spending so much on audio gears, but having road noise/engine noise ruining it.
To reduce noise, I found out mass loaded vinyl is more effective than dynamat. Not to mention they cost much much less than dynamat.
Have a read on this link:
http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/...c=50295&st=180
http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/...&#entry1112055

It's not gonna be lexus car, but it will make long trip more bearable.
The most noise I have now is the engine noise. To get rid of it requires taking out the dash board to sound deadening firewall... too much work for me :P
My next step is to get good set of tires. I'm currently running cheapo tyres and they are noisy as hell.

Good luck.

**Migoreng_Noodles** · 27-01-2010 04:11 PM

Thanks for the reply. Unlike some on CAA, I'm not fussed about brands. The best bang for buck would do me perfectly.

Looking at MLV though, it doesn't appear to be suitable for using it on doors to add mass? Does it have a sticky backing so it can be applied to door trim? From reading your post on CAA though and with your pictures, it definitely looks like the perfect thing to use inside the cabin above wheel arches and possibly all over the floor and boot. Maybe this will allow me to just use a single bulk pack of Dynamat Extreme on the doors and boot? Then use cheaper/more effective MLV on the floor (under the knox sound insulation felt) and in the boot?

To tell the truth, I'm expecting the biggest gains from sealing up the doors and the knoxautocarpet sound insulation felt.

Solid/dead/flat doors are definitely one of my requirements. Closing my EG doors sounds like crushing a coke can.

**arverson** · 27-01-2010 09:21 PM

with no hesitation, deaden the whole car. even go overkill with it, it'll definitely be worth it.

**tron07** · 28-01-2010 07:49 AM

I tried sound deadening my EJ8 before and it didnt really make a huge difference, sold the car and got a nice quiet Euro

**ejc_installations** · 28-01-2010 09:52 AM

Ive sound deadened the boot of my eh and doors. But it only helped with the sound of the stereo. Outside noise and exhaust noise still stayed the same..

I'd suggest you use the spray on deadener on the inside, then cover it with dynamat.. Thats a bit extreme though and expensive.

**twing** · 28-01-2010 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by Migoreng_Noodles

Looking at MLV though, it doesn't appear to be suitable for using it on doors to add mass?

MLV is for blocking noise. Dynamat is for adding mass to metal panel. With the extra mass, it will reduce the vibration of the panel by converting the energy to heat.

I did applied similar product (b-quiet) on the door. If you are looking for the nice 'thud' when closing the door, then use dynamat, for blocking road noise MLV is more superior.

Originally Posted by tron07

I tried sound deadening my EJ8 before and it didnt really make a huge difference, sold the car and got a nice quiet Euro

I agree with tron07. No matter how much you put, it won't beat Euro or any other new car. My friend 08 Yarris sedan, is miles away quieter than mine.

**Migoreng_Noodles** · 28-01-2010 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by twing

MLV is for blocking noise. Dynamat is for adding mass to metal panel. With the extra mass, it will reduce the vibration of the panel by converting the energy to heat.

I did applied similar product (b-quiet) on the door. If you are looking for the nice 'thud' when closing the door, then use dynamat, for blocking road noise MLV is more superior.

That makes sense, thanks for the reply.

Sounds like I need to Dynamat and MLV most of the car? How is the Jaycar MLV applied? Does it have a sticky backing like Dynamat?

Can MLV be used in the doors? How does it bond to the car?

Originally Posted by twing

I agree with tron07. No matter how much you put, it won't beat Euro or any other new car. My friend 08 Yarris sedan, is miles away quieter than mine.

Surely Dynamat and the sound underlay felt + MLV will drastically reduce road noise?

Dynamat + Sealed doors for the stereo?
Sound underlay and MLV for the road noise?

**twing** · 28-01-2010 11:03 AM

Originally Posted by Migoreng_Noodles

That makes sense, thanks for the reply.

Sounds like I need to Dynamat and MLV most of the car? How is the Jaycar MLV applied? Does it have a sticky backing like Dynamat?

Can MLV be used in the doors? How does it bond to the car?

Will have to use some contact glue.

Originally Posted by Migoreng_Noodles

Surely Dynamat and the sound underlay felt + MLV will drastically reduce road noise?

It will definately be an improvement.
to 'euro like' level? I don't know. On mine, I didn't do the firewall and floor.
Too much work :P... beside that, the more you pray out the the plastic trim/clips, the less grip they will have.. and potentially gives more rattle.

Originally Posted by Migoreng_Noodles

Dynamat + Sealed doors for the stereo?
Sound underlay and MLV for the road noise?

For the door, I will apply MLV for the outer panel, and dynamat on the inner panel.

The sound underlay from knox looks good.

**tron07** · 29-01-2010 08:24 AM

Originally Posted by Migoreng_Noodles

Surely Dynamat and the sound underlay felt + MLV will drastically reduce road noise?

Dynamat + Sealed doors for the stereo?
Sound underlay and MLV for the road noise?

I use dynamat extreme, some flash tape from bunnings to add mass and Dynamat extremelinear for the coupe.

You can look at my civic coupe site and from there there is a link to my old Proton Wira overseas. The wira is also heavilly sound deaden as well with various products.

**twing** · 29-01-2010 09:06 AM

Here is my door when I diy-ing speaker install on my car:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...69#post2524369

The b-quiet was applied on both outer and inner skin. My door shuts with a nice thud

**JasonGilholme** · 29-01-2010 09:21 AM

Originally Posted by twing

to 'euro like' level? I don't know. On mine, I didn't do the firewall and floor.
Too much work :P... beside that, the more you pray out the the plastic trim/clips, the less grip they will have.. and potentially gives more rattle.

the floor and firewall are the biggest areas for road noise to enter. The floor pan is very thin. When i removed my sound deadening from the floor and firewall there was a big increase in road noise.

As for the clips making more rattles etc. Just buy new clips. Can get box sets specifically for honda with all the clips you need etc. 2 or so boxes would be enough for a whole car.