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Its really high coast of your civic car because if you are looking for cheap color then it have not quality so after one year of car it will appear very bed condition.
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haha
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i have a new angle.
ive seen this nice colour i wanted and the brand of paint is called dna
http://dna-paints.com
just wondering, is DIY easy with fresh aftermarket bumpers?
is DIY easy overall with this paint? has anyone had experience with this brand of pre-mixed paint.
i have a 2hp air compressor at home with a airbrush tool like this one:
i had an idea to get ahold of fresh aftermarket bumpers that are black, slap the paint n clear coat n what ever else recomended on, get some second hand fenders and repaint them and then put them on the car, selling the old fenders n bumpers to places like hondaworld or hondwreck. and paint the rest of the chasis. what do you think? ive never painted cars but ive worked with the airbrush before.
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I don't think the compressor is going to be up for the job.
Unless you're pro (or don't care) then you'll miss the OEM finish that the stock paint has.
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i love your wing...
My bros old EG got resprayed $1800 incl panel beat. Turned out "ok", rate it 6/10. But if you get it quote for that much, try to find out previous customers who went there and ask for their opinions regarding the result for that amount of price.
Good luck
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Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
i have a new angle.
ive seen this nice colour i wanted and the brand of paint is called dna
http://dna-paints.com
just wondering, is DIY easy with fresh aftermarket bumpers?
is DIY easy overall with this paint? has anyone had experience with this brand of pre-mixed paint.
i have a 2hp air compressor at home with a airbrush tool like this one:
i had an idea to get ahold of fresh aftermarket bumpers that are black, slap the paint n clear coat n what ever else recomended on, get some second hand fenders and repaint them and then put them on the car, selling the old fenders n bumpers to places like hondaworld or hondwreck. and paint the rest of the chasis. what do you think? ive never painted cars but ive worked with the airbrush before.
hey mate the brand of paint is good
1.The compressor is way to small, u would have dry spray all through your paint because you would be waitin for it to fill up with air..
2. would not recommend using that spray gun.. get a good gun with the pot on the top, with a 1.4 tip not a cheap one
3. on your bumpers if there new will need plastic primer before you apply the paint or in the future your paint will just start flaking off them..
anything else just ask im a quilified panel beater in the trade for 7 yrs now
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Originally Posted by sxmachine
hey mate the brand of paint is good
1.The compressor is way to small, u would have dry spray all through your paint because you would be waitin for it to fill up with air..
2. would not recommend using that spray gun.. get a good gun with the pot on the top, with a 1.4 tip not a cheap one
3. on your bumpers if there new will need plastic primer before you apply the paint or in the future your paint will just start flaking off them..
Good info.
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Originally Posted by sxmachine
hey mate the brand of paint is good
1.The compressor is way to small, u would have dry spray all through your paint because you would be waitin for it to fill up with air..
2. would not recommend using that spray gun.. get a good gun with the pot on the top, with a 1.4 tip not a cheap one
3. on your bumpers if there new will need plastic primer before you apply the paint or in the future your paint will just start flaking off them..
anything else just ask im a quilified panel beater in the trade for 7 yrs now
if i do attempt it to it in the way i planned of course, i will be getting one of them guns that feed paint from the top of the tool them gravity ones or w/e their called.
are you sure the compressor is way to small? because i will be working on spraying bumpers one by one, once a week per bumper or something and then after all that ill attach them onto my car.
also, im not sure how the prime coat is supposed to feel or look like after preping with the sand paper. do you have any close up shots to the grains of the primer? i have a feeling i might do the primer layer too thick, resulting in a rouch crap colour job.
one last thing, how about the old fenders, will i need to prime them if i buy second hand ones?
thanks for your info ive seen my old man do the job before, and he failed thats y im asking. he had crap paint from paintmobile and forgot to mix the colour with the thinner on the first coat and the whole paintjob became like spider webs HAHAHA which totally ruined the smoothness of the paintjob (in my own theory of coursE)
Originally Posted by im.Kusuma
i love your wing...
Good luck
i know right?! cant find them these days on the market besides shoddy imitation ones which have the brake light in place like a round ball going through a triangle slot
Last edited by cheapdouchebag; 14-02-2010 at 09:57 PM.
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Another alternative if you trying to paint on the cheap is the roller method with rust-o-leum or equivalent types of enamel paint (i think wattyl killrust is similar and more readily available in bunnings). You basically roll the rust-o-luem on the car with a high density foam roller and wet sand after every coat. And be prepared for ALOT of wetsanding.
The benefits of this method is it is cheaper than the spray cans method, there is less masking involved and there wont be any overspray that messes up your whole garage. The quality of finish depends on the amount of prep work you have put into it. Also no clear coat is required as the paint is relatively durable. And if you ever do get any scratches in it, you just have to wetsand it down and apply another coat. One 500ml tin (20 bucks i think) is enough for I'd say a full bodykit as you have to thin it out 50/50 with mineral turp. Supplies all up (1 can of killrust, foam roller, mineral turp, sandpaper, masking tape, metal primer) would cost not more than 60-80 bucks.
I debadged+painted the boot of my EK in gloss black with this method and the results were pretty decent. I only decided to try this method as the paint on the boot was totally PINK with (originally red) and I figured couldnt get any worse than it already was if I did a shit job. However I wouldnt attempt this if your paint is still in "decent" condition. I have painted a couple of bodykits on my old 180sx before using spray methods so I do have a slightly better idea of body/prep work. Hated the overspray it caused when I painted it in the garage so I tried this method.
Google "roll on rustoleum" and you will prob find heaps of info from other sites. Again, I wouldnt recommend this method if you're not ready to sacrifice your current paint job, and of course it wont be a show-car quality paintjob, but if you do put in the time and effort to wetsand the shit of of the panels, this method does pay off.
Last edited by countonjohn; 15-02-2010 at 04:35 PM.
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Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag
i know right?! cant find them these days on the market besides shoddy imitation ones which have the brake light in place like a round ball going through a triangle slot
if u ever plan on selling it, let me know
btw, got anymore pics of your car? looks like an import
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