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  1. #745
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
    Car:
    B18EG|EG6|EP3
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    Im not doubting the mighty old d16a8. Great old engine , i had one. But it put exactly 58ishkw atw in 2004. Well maintained.
    Interesting. Perhaps mine is just better? lol

    I'm going to a dyno day on saturday so if i have time to get a turns I'll be posting dyno sheets
    My EG5 build
    "Try to move in with a hot easy gurl. I've got a mate who does his house mate when he gets drunk. This way you can cure some of the loneliness and also save $$$ on prosties. Just remember to act like nothings happened the next day because if you get attached your laterz mate."

  2. #746
    Quote Originally Posted by will13 View Post
    Interesting. Perhaps mine is just better? lol

    I'm going to a dyno day on saturday so if i have time to get a turns I'll be posting dyno sheets
    perhaps. Or the dyno you tested your car had adjusted its ramp rates etc....giving it an inflated read out figure. No two dynos are exactly the same readout ! My old Si pulled hard for what it was and beat many a SSS back in the day too. But it had a low kw @ the wheel and ultimately would not get any better

  3. #747
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
    Car:
    B18EG|EG6|EP3
    Quote Originally Posted by beeza View Post
    That WAS at the 1/4 mile right Will? LOL
    it was 'A' quarter mile...not so much 'THE' quarter mile lol
    My EG5 build
    "Try to move in with a hot easy gurl. I've got a mate who does his house mate when he gets drunk. This way you can cure some of the loneliness and also save $$$ on prosties. Just remember to act like nothings happened the next day because if you get attached your laterz mate."

  4. #748
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Ahahahahahhahahahaaaa

  5. #749
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    perhaps. Or the dyno you tested your car had adjusted its ramp rates etc....giving it an inflated read out figure. No two dynos are exactly the same readout ! My old Si pulled hard for what it was and beat many a SSS back in the day too. But it had a low kw @ the wheel and ultimately would not get any better
    dyno's can read low too. lets not forget that. They're only a tuning tool at best.

    The real world results is what counts. 1/4 times and comparisons to other cars in the real world is the best way.

    Rock what ya got

  6. #750
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EG+CL9
    Quote Originally Posted by JasonGilholme View Post
    I think at 300K you'd be needing to replace OEM parts anyway. Turbo or not!
    actually it runs really well, i have replaced anything i can think of that is due to fail - all hoses, some cables, some belts, etc

    always run on OEM oils and parts

    tough little bastard =)
    ----------------------------
    D15b Turbo EG Sedan Build + CL9 Lux N/A Build
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127680

  7. #751
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    hehehe nice,any vids man?

    Quote Originally Posted by A-man View Post
    ive just got mine running
    [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8KMfV7L92E"]
    Sweet,I need audio!

    Anymore vids of her going

  8. #752
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    In the pit
    Car:
    A black one
    Quote Originally Posted by will13 View Post
    I've priced one for a y1 at about $600 US which imo is REALLY cheap. See below


    The kit contains:
    -FJ R Spec Custom Length D16 I Beam Connecting Rods
    -ARP 2000 3/8" Rod Bolts
    -ARP Lube
    -YCP Vitara pistons (75mm / 75.5mm / 76mm)
    -Wrist pins and C clips
    -Piston rings (Hastings or NPR)
    -OEM Timing Belt
    -Japanese Water Pump
    -ACL Rod Bearings
    -ACL Main Bearings
    -ACL or King Thrust washers
    -Full engine Gasket & Seals set--> Its all the gaskets and seals you will need for your engine from the oil pan and up to the head.Metal 3 layer Head gasket (approx .030 thickness)


    Looks like you'd have to source the snail from elsewhere though
    So will also need snail, pipes, radiator....what else?
    Anyone selling a black ek1 facelift Hood (OEM)?? PM ME


  9. #753
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
    Car:
    B18EG|EG6|EP3
    havnt looked that much into it. im not that cluey with turbo setups either
    My EG5 build
    "Try to move in with a hot easy gurl. I've got a mate who does his house mate when he gets drunk. This way you can cure some of the loneliness and also save $$$ on prosties. Just remember to act like nothings happened the next day because if you get attached your laterz mate."

  10. #754
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Melbourne -West Westside!
    Car:
    Want A Jazz
    For my D i've spent 100 for genie headers... a VAFC2 is the next point of call after the extractors are fitted as the tune will be of help and if i go b-series later i can still use the VAFC2 as my piggy back but most of my cash is being thrown at suspension
    . h i t o r i k o .

  11. #755
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Smart thinking!

    Can't go wrong with those genie headers for $100,great score!

  12. #756
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EG+CL9
    what do you use in place of a VAFC when your car isnt VTEC?

    SAFC? or is there something else?
    ----------------------------
    D15b Turbo EG Sedan Build + CL9 Lux N/A Build
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127680

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