Diy request paintjob pictures

[jdm_b16a]

Forgive me for saying this, but if you're post reflects the level of your experience then you should not be attempting to paint your own car without getting some experience with setup, paint mixing, gun control and technique on scrap panels first.

Peter

[cheapdouchebag]

Forgive me for saying this, but if you're post reflects the level of your experience then you should not be attempting to paint your own car without getting some experience with setup, paint mixing, gun control and technique on scrap panels first.

Peter

To be honset. ive never painted a car before.
but i have contributed to it. and im not planning to respraying my whole car, just my rear bummper and left fender to B63P.
but i have used the paint gun before, and mixed the paint with thinners etc.
What i haev ready to use is everything besides the gravity feed paint gun, and the consumables. I'm going to hand sand my parts rather than use orbital sander.

I have a orbital bufffer, will that work when im cutting or will it be too weak? I as i said am going to paint it B63P (oem eg blue) and i have a green acrylic cutting compound that hasnt been used (one of the random things my old man has) will this do the trick or is a different one advised?

It will feel like fine sandpaper under your hand when you rub over it and will lack any shine

what is the best way to avoid this feeling when painting? is it helpful to overlap each spray with half the length of the paint spray that feeds out from the nozzle?

EDIT: P.s those pictures are extremely helpful thank you! only one more question, with the primer coat, when u rub firmly on the primer, should some come off? is that an indicator that the prime coat is too thick?

[jdm_b16a]

I have an orbital bufffer, will that work when I'm cutting or will it be too weak?

Is it a Rotary? Does it have a variable speed function? If no, then don't use it, you will cut the paint real quick. If yes, then ...

Apply cutting compound to the pad (not a lambswool pad but a foam pad as in my photos), rub it into a small area then turn the ROS on at "3" and slowly work around the panel. Don't be tempted to go too far. You can also do this by hand but it will take longer. Avoid the edges as you will definitely cut the paint away. Move up to "5" on the ROS but watch the surface.

I as I said I am going to paint it B63P (oem eg blue) and i have a green acrylic cutting compound that hasn't been used (one of the random things my old man has) will this do the trick or is a different one advised?

If it's Septone Cutting or Buffing Compound, and it has been sealed (still soft inside) then it is good stuff. When you buff by hand you'll know when you have a good 'cut' when you're hand that is doing the buffing starts to slip over the surface (no resistance - surface is polished). When using a ROS be careful and watch the surface so you don't 'burn' the paint.

what is the best way to avoid this feeling when painting? is it helpful to overlap each spray with half the length of the paint spray that feeds out from the nozzle?

Yes, you overlap but you have to have the right combination on the gun (fluid, air and nozzle opening for spray pattern) so the paint is 'wet' on the panel without being too much so that it runs. It's a fine balance and you only achieve it with practice.

EDIT: P.s those pictures are extremely helpful thank you! only one more question, with the primer coat, when u rub firmly on the primer, should some come off? is that an indicator that the prime coat is too thick?

Some will come off when you wet sand, but use lots of fresh water and some mild detergent in the bucket to make the W&D slippy over the paint (removes clogs in the paper from the painted surface). No its not necessarily as sign that it is too thick. Three coats of primer is only microns thick anyway. If you make the primer (or paint) too wet it will run - it it doesn't run then everything is sweet but it will take longer for the solvents to evaporate. The biggest mistake is putting the subsequent coats on too early. This doesn't allow the underlayer to dry and causes all sorts of problems later. Allow sufficient time for each layer to dry.

Peter

[jdm_b16a]

As I said I am going to paint it B63P (oem eg blue) ...

That's the Harvard Blue Pearl paint isn't it, same as was on my EH9 sedan when I bought it.

Harvard Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-63P 92-95 Civic

Much more difficult than a flat colour. You have to apply a clear coat over the pearl (it's what they call "clear over base") and do lots of cutting and polishing to achieve a good result. Good luck.

Peter

[cheapdouchebag]

Its me again.
ive gotten ahold of some paint, and prepsol and some thinner from my automotive paintshop ''paintmobile''. is the pearl already in my colour? is it not just prime, colour, clear (with inbetween sanding of course)
Also, the unopened cutting compound. not sure if its septone or not.
it goes ''MAX CUTTERS - Green acrylic compound (cutting compound machine grade).'' is it advisible to use this one? price says its $7.95 for a tub about the size of a large vegimite container. will that be enough for one sedan bumper and a left fender?

thank you sooo much you have clarified alot of grey areas for me Peter.

[jdm_b16a]

Yes, pearl is in the colour.

Yes, that should be heaps for cutting back.

Peter