its pretty bad, either that or im undoing the wrong screw. thereso nly one big bolt at the bottom of the motor and i can get it out with any spanner ive got -.-
will d16z6 Inlet Manifold bolt onto a d16y1 motor, reason is i cant find Quads for a d16y1 but there is heaps for d16z6
MTR - Mad Turk Racing
DA9 LS/Vtec V2,145.8kw ATW V2,PB 13.409@107mph 2.299 60ft.... 4.5 year old r888's DYNO DAVE TUNED
Like a Post you See then hit me, PQ+
will d16z6 Inlet Manifold bolt onto a d16y1 motor, reason is i cant find Quads for a d16y1 but there is heaps for d16z6
all d series , BAR the D16a8/ZC have the same head stud pattern on inlet and outlet ( exhaust).
You MAY have to port alittle here or there to match the ports correctly tho. Easy to do , just get the gasket off the intended ITB's , and port your head to match the new gasket ( place it on and use dye or the gasket as a guide)
I believe they are very similar, they just have different flow characteristics. should fit though - check on d-series.org first, if they dont know, no one will
My EG5 build "Try to move in with a hot easy gurl. I've got a mate who does his house mate when he gets drunk. This way you can cure some of the loneliness and also save $$$ on prosties. Just remember to act like nothings happened the next day because if you get attached your laterz mate."
don't go an open pod in your bay. You just suck the hot air into your engine. Does wonders for lowering performance.
You're better off with an intake the puts the filter outside of the bay, or something like the setup from an ITR. You can even go with a K&N panel filter in your stock box. Will be much better then an open pod in the bay.
jeesus its hard to change oil in a d-series. the bolt is so damn tight on. i havent even got that bolt off yet at the bottom, or is it me doing it wrong?
U should be able to crack it.It's the transmission bolt I had probs with but not anymore.
I jack the car up,put a brick under there,then put the ratchet in position and lower the car.It cracks the seal,easy as!
Bookmarks