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  1. #13
    that looks exactly like my old crank bolt even sheared with the same dome shape on the bolt head side

    how long did your EG last past when it suffered the sheared bolt?

    it might be giving away his trade secrets but i don't suppose you know what your repairer did to make sure the new pulley didn't loosen again with a damaged keyway do you? i used strong rtv silicone, was tempted to use one of the super polymers that loctite make but thought that one day i just might need to get that pulley off again

    thanks

  2. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by lithium View Post
    how long did your EG last past when it suffered the sheared bolt?

    it might be giving away his trade secrets but i don't suppose you know what your repairer did to make sure the new pulley didn't loosen again with a damaged keyway do you? i used strong rtv silicone, was tempted to use one of the super polymers that loctite make but thought that one day i just might need to get that pulley off again

    thanks
    Not sure what you mean by/with your first sentence ?

    As for the damaged keyway.........I was lucky enough not to have one
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  3. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by wynode View Post
    Not sure what you mean by/with your first sentence ?

    As for the damaged keyway.........I was lucky enough not to have one
    sorry - apologies for my lazy internet english i meant to ask, how much further did the engine in your EG travel before you sold it/it went to car heaven? i'm just asking because i want to know how much longer i can expect this engine to go for.

    though seeing your crank wasn't damaged when the pulley came off, i guess it's a different case

  4. #16
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    I think I had a couple of track days after that incident

    Mind you the car had around 160K before it happened (assuming it hadn't happened before I owned it)
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  5. #17
    The problem is your drive belts were too tight, but if the thread is stuck in the crank you need to call the thread doctor, he is in melb. but yeah he is great and doesnt charge to much.

  6. #18
    over-tightened drive belts can shear a crank bolt? that's the first i've ever heard of that i find it very very very difficult to believe some big rubber bands can destroy a hardened bolt of that size

    i suspect it either sheared due to 20 years of normal wear and tear, or incorrect torquing during one of the previous timing belt changes.

    half was stuck in the crank, but no thread doctor was required fortunately a reversible power drill and left hand drill bits did the trick. ghetto fixes ftw

    in other news the Breeze has hit 300km since the repair. still going strong, the crank pulley has not grown wings again

  7. #19
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    over tightened belts could put pressure over time especially with inertia as a result of the pulley turning
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  8. #20
    Yes thank you, especially if the power steering belt is over tightened as that is on the outside of the crank pulley, seen it happen a few times and is a rule when re-tensioning drive belts on hondas, especially the older ones.

  9. #21
    well, ok. in my experience over tightening the belts merely makes them wear more quickly. i guess in the presence of another failure eg. worn keyway, wobbling pulley - a tight belt will accelerate the wear

  10. #22
    another problem arises , when people re use oem bolts and tighten to spec.

    In this instance , tigthening an old crank bolt to 177nm (or just hit it hard with a impact gun as mechs often do) can cause fractures and the bolt can just fall apart.

  11. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    another problem arises , when people re use oem bolts and tighten to spec.

    In this instance , tigthening an old crank bolt to 177nm (or just hit it hard with a impact gun as mechs often do) can cause fractures and the bolt can just fall apart.
    agreed. i think Honda acknowledges this problem as the new crank bolts for this motor are made from a different material and are now torqued to 194NM.

  12. #24
    Hey guys, l know this might be a stupid question, but can someone confirm for me if the thread is LH or RH. I'm presuming normal RH given using LH drill bits to extract the old bolt.

    I'm having a hell of a time getting it out!!! I'm going to grab a big impact gun from work (mine wont budge it), but just want to make sure l'm doing it the right way (have tried both with my impact gun).

    Cheers!

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