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  1. #349
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2 Squared
    K swap is a new kettle of fish and it gets expensive quickly. IMHO. K swap is a little more for the serious enthusiast.

    The only real main reason of rebuilding the B20, is to do the conversion properly and do it once. B series engines are nearing on 15years old now so they are starting to get a little tired. It would be ideal to build that engine with some goodies here and there while you freshen it up for better power/reliablity also.

    You don't need much to be very happy with a 2.0L going from a 1.6L. Most people rave about it and they are going from a 1.8!

  2. #350
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ippy
    Car:
    EM1
    i'd also like to know about the brakes. would it be a legal requirement for a brake upgrade?
    FOR SALE: Injector seal kits || Dayco B16A timing belt

  3. #351
    Banned Array
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Vaucluse NSW
    Car:
    EKB20 > EGB18C
    if you got drums then ye.. but for lets say em1 no they are fine

  4. #352
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2 Squared
    I've seen cars engineered with drums on the rear still.

    Most of the braking is done via the front so if you can get a good set of pads in there, you're fine. That "brake upgrade" rule is used a little too loosely, we are not engine swapping some 500whp engine in.

  5. #353
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Canberra, ACT
    Car:
    Integra DC2
    just curious, if u already have a b18c is it better to bore it out, sleeve it and run 85mm pistons or do a B20VTEC ?? would the results be similar?

  6. #354
    gives you 1980cc compared to 1973cc's to begin with

  7. #355
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Canberra, ACT
    Car:
    Integra DC2
    oh, how about 85.5mm?

  8. #356
    makes it exactly 2.0l.

  9. #357
    is the ITR crank better to use in a b20 build?

    I will be rebuilding my b18c7 soon -- but want more than 130-140kw@wheels. thinking of going to 2L or *gulp* lower compression charger build.

  10. #358
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2 Squared
    Same thing, but you will find B20vtec will save you BIG time - NSYPYRE

    No, ITR crank is 2mm shorter in stroke. So stick to the B20 thumper - ewendc2r

  11. #359
    ok thanks -- read somewhere about the itr crank being fully counter-weighted and assumed the other models werent.... thought this might be better in achieving higher rpm capability / less vibration etc..

    so im likely better off putting my itr engine aside for the time being, building a b20 slapping that in and then just rebuilding the b18 and selling??

  12. #360
    Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Unit 5/15 Sefton Rd, Thor
    Car:
    08 Red CU2 Euro
    Both the ITR & B20B cranks are full counter.
    For a roadie, use the B20 crank. In a race engine, IMO, you're better off with the 87.2mm stroke & narrow R bearings of the B18CR crank.
    + The B20 crank needs more balancing attention than the B18CR crank & is more prone to 2nd order harmonics @ over 8800rpm+
    TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
    TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
    Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
    P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au

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