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  1. #361
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Canberra, ACT
    Car:
    Integra DC2
    Quote Originally Posted by Chr1s View Post
    Same thing, but you will find B20vtec will save you BIG time - NSYPYRE
    oh really?? as a rough guide, how much cheaper would it be? also, if u change the block, would u need to re-register it? (or whatever its called) because of the differing engine numbers? taking that into consideration, would it still be less than a bore?

    lastly, i kno rod to stroke ratios have been discussed to death, but only changing the bore will keep the rod/stroke ratio the same yes?

    sorry if some of these are noob-ish questions...

    oh, one other thing. would a bore and sleeved b18c be more reliable as opposed to a b20vtec?

  2. #362
    If u have an integra, upgrading to b20vtec requires only a blue slip to change the engine number. No Engineer Certifcate is required

  3. #363
    Quote Originally Posted by VTec1987 View Post
    If u have an integra, upgrading to b20vtec requires only a blue slip to change the engine number. No Engineer Certifcate is required
    Right , because it is under 15% capacity range
    from standard engine. This means , the standard brakes are
    designed to cope with the theoretical power increase / loading.

  4. #364
    Quote Originally Posted by VTec1987 View Post
    If u have an integra, upgrading to b20vtec - No Engineer Certifcate is required
    if you ignore the emmissions test/ADR's etc...
    B20VTEC - since 2002

  5. #365
    Quote Originally Posted by tinkerbell View Post
    if you ignore the emmissions test/ADR's etc...
    Doesn't it come under the same rules as "replacement engine " ?

    That is , using all emissions standards
    from the chassis year ( ie obd1,obd2a and obd2b) etc ?

    Easy on a b series to make it relevant to it's chassis emissions standards

  6. #366
    LOL, only if you don't change anything else.

    so you need to keep factory B18 ECU, B18 Honda fuel pressure, B18 Honda air intake, B18 Honda header, B18 Honda exhasut etc etc etc...
    B20VTEC - since 2002

  7. #367
    Quote Originally Posted by tinkerbell View Post
    LOL, only if you don't change anything else.

    so you need to keep factory B18 ECU, B18 Honda fuel pressure, B18 Honda air intake, B18 Honda header, B18 Honda exhasut etc etc etc...

    Good points , of which none would be relevant to anyone putting this engine into said dc2 or dc4 !

  8. #368
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2 Squared
    Eh? This is getting abit confusing. If we all "comply" to ADR/emissions, every single honda will be off the road except for the brand new cars. So I don't know why that was even mentioned, you shit stirrer tinkerbell!

    If you put a 2.0L engine in a car with a 1.8L engine, there is NO need for an engineering certificate, just get a blueslip for a change of engine number, if the RTA hassle you, call superwog. If it has to do with dates of manufacture, then you're looking at EPA emission constraints.

    It's not that a hone is cheaper than changing the engine number, it's the cost of buying sleeves, having someone put them in for you alongside the risk of having a dope install them incorrectly compared to an odd $500 b20 engine from the wreckers with good supporting mods that will be very rewarding.

    If you have a budget to sleeve a b18, you have enough of a budget to build a pimpin' b20vtec.

  9. #369
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    Quote Originally Posted by Chr1s View Post
    K swap is a new kettle of fish and it gets expensive quickly. IMHO. K swap is a little more for the serious enthusiast.
    B series engines are nearing on 15years old now so they are starting to get a little tired. It would be ideal to build that engine with some goodies here and there while you freshen it up for better power/reliablity also.
    K-series is not expensive as most people would think it is. If you shop around, you can find a K20 running gear for a decent price (sometimes if your lucky a price of a B18c Type R conversion). Same deal with the B-series, you'll get yourself a tunable ECU, headers, exhaust sytem and Intake system. This is ALL required with the K-series as well. The extra money is needed to go into the Kswap engine mounts and the conversion harness. If your really tight on a budget, OBX make Kswap mounts and you can make your own conversion harness (there are a few DIY manual on the k20a.org). So how can a Kswap be more expensive real quick?

    Remember guys, B-series is getting old. Not only is the engine old, what about the gearbox, driveshafts, dizzy, starter motor and etc?

    Something to think about guys

  10. #370
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    ^^ So true,the b is getting on now.

  11. #371
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    legtec @2psi
    ^ what about shifter box and kswap driveshafts, ....


  12. #372
    stop talking about K vs B

    there are other threads fo that.
    B20VTEC - since 2002

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