well i dont know much about cars really but its always nice to have more people look at your car to see the problem . i would seriosly say give pornstar a Pm..
"Tony Stark was able to build this in a cave! With a box of scraps!"
Wayne: Funny.. Mugsees car is also built in a cave with a bunch of scraps, also its red and gold.. interesting......
A quick note, could it be a coolent temp sensor malfunction at high temps? I checked it out and the wirers wern't in great condition and the clip that goes on the sensor itself was soaked in oil... anyone know if oil becomes conductive at high temps?
check main relay (fuel and spark relay) may get overheated and need replacing / resoldering. Also check dizzy cap , rotor , ignitor unit or internal coil too....all can be affected by heat ( and are common to show similar problems to what you are describing.
good luck finding the prob mate. don't u just hate it when u know something is wrong with your car, but u don't know what it is and mechanics can't find the prob. or even worse, some don't even know what u are talking about!
A quick note, could it be a coolent temp sensor malfunction at high temps? I checked it out and the wirers wern't in great condition and the clip that goes on the sensor itself was soaked in oil... anyone know if oil becomes conductive at high temps?
ECT sensor tells the ECU how hot the engine is - if this sensor sends a bad signal eg "engine cold" whilst engine is hot - the ECU will be putting too much fuel in and it will run too rich.
i'd saw swap the sensor and make sure you resolder the wires.
the ECT sensor is the one with a proper plug - hte egine coolant gauge sensor is smaller and only has one prong.
also do a tune up, dizzy cap and rotor, if not recently replaced...
what oil is this? engine oil? or is it grease? anyway, neither should conduct. temp sensor malfunction should turn up with a check light i would have thought.
Originally Posted by SIKCVC
A quick note, could it be a coolent temp sensor malfunction at high temps? I checked it out and the wirers wern't in great condition and the clip that goes on the sensor itself was soaked in oil... anyone know if oil becomes conductive at high temps?
i dont quite follow your story. could this be two seperate problems could the check light and engine not starting be due to a old factory immobiliser key? thats how they can present
The clutch hasn't been replaced, the thrust bearing is slowly dieing but its not clutch slippage, the clutch is still strong.
The engine not starting is confusing, but it has something to do with no fuel going through to the engine, ie the pump didn't switch on. Its never happened to me on start up before. (my immobiliser is 'active', it only switches on when the alarm is switched on but wont switch off till the alarm is reset) I think that the loss in power is related through the fact that maybe my elect tank fuel pump is cutting during hard running.
How would the main relay cut out from hard running?
but it doesn't sound like the pump is cutting from hard running, you said it struggled to run up a hill in fifth at 80. besides does the engine sound like its leaning out?
How would the main relay cut out from hard running?
As i stated before - hard running = HEAT .....and the main relay and other electrical connections prematurely fail when exposed to excess heat.
Its a common problem for hodnas to experience overheating main relays.
Have a look and see for a start if ur main relay is in good condition.
Also fuel filter ?
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Originally Posted by SIKCVC
B20VTEC - since 2002 
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