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  1. #1

    EK civic D-series d16y4 turbo build questions please help!

    Hi all.

    Time to finally get serious with my engine build. The wheels are in motion, but im stuck at a stand-still, and was wondering if I can rack all your brains for some info.

    I have a 96 cxi d16y4 that i bought boosted, but with the engine blown. I didnt do any of the work, and dont know any of the specs. I have since purchased a d16y4 bottom end, that has been re-bored, with vitara pistons and eagle rods fitted.

    I plan to be running ~15psi (the vitara's can handle up to 20psi as per the specs). I also plan to get the head ported and polished.

    1) HEAD. Currently I have a d16y4 head. Is this the way to go for a turbo setup? to my knowledge, the vtec y1/y8 head swap isnt feasable on boost. is it difficult / possible to keen the y4 bottom end a put a DOHC d-series head on.....and if so would it be better for my turbo setup?

    2) ECU. This is where I have no idea. At present the car is running a vafc-II apexi and a GReddy ECU. I want to change to a standalone system, but have heard mixed results. Do i need to rewire the car (am I OBD-1, and do I need OBD-1 to run an aftermarket ECU?). Also am i going to get significantly better results running a standalone vs a piggyback system?

    3) I have heard that the Hondata s300 or a neptune is the way to go. Can any one confirm this or alternatively advise me on a better ECU for the job?

    4) Exhaust. What size exhaust is ideal for my setup (a 1600cc turbo car)? Im guessing at least 2 1/2 inch?

    5) The Turbo. This is another area where I have no idea. I want drivability, not gigantic numbers on the dyno. I would prefer an application that gives me a bigger powerband with less lag (namely a smaller turbo right?) . I dont want any cheap ebay=chinese crap; but something good. What do you guys recommend?

    6) Camshaft. Given that its a turbo setup, the cam is imporant. Has anyone built up a d16y4 turbo, and if so what did you do with the cam?

    7) Auto electrician. Who do you guys recommend in Brisbane to do all my wiring and electrical quirks.

    8) Tuning. Who is the man to tune the car in Brisbane?


    I want to do this build once and do it right. Im flying fairly blind...im doing all the reading i can at old threads, to work out exactly whats right for my setup and my car. Any input and advice would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks guys,

    skiiboy90.
    Last edited by skiiboy90; 29-08-2010 at 11:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    My D16Y1 Turb build before she blew
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...7.5WKW-Not-Bad!!

    My B16A Turb build still running
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-Modem-Warning)

    1. heads arn't interchangeable between DOCH and SOHC

    2. Hondata all the way, e-management helped kill my D

    4. 2.5" would be fine for 15psi

    5. GT28 no smaller

    6. Use the after market cam again if you go with the same head

    7. The wiring so very simple, just read up a bit and do it yourself
    Last edited by Lukezen27; 30-08-2010 at 04:54 PM.
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  3. #3
    thanks Luke,

    just to rack your brain a bit more.....

    1) What OBD would my car be, what do i need it to be to run a Hondata, and what Hondata would best suit my application?

    2) Where can I get a decent turbo from (im taking it a GT is a Garrett yeah?) - sorry I have never played with turbo's before and am totally new to it all.

    =]

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    Quote Originally Posted by skiiboy90 View Post
    thanks Luke,

    just to rack your brain a bit more.....

    1) What OBD would my car be, what do i need it to be to run a Hondata, and what Hondata would best suit my application?

    2) Where can I get a decent turbo from (im taking it a GT is a Garrett yeah?) - sorry I have never played with turbo's before and am totally new to it all.

    =]
    1. 92-95 odb1 96-00 odb2

    2. USA and yeah GT28 is a Garrett
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  5. #5
    so I am on OBD2 with a 96 model...will hondata run on OBD2?

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Queensland
    Car:
    EK1 Civic
    Your probably better off getting full stand-alone like an apexi PFC or something. here's why. The Y4 has a unique wiring system. so usually most OBD2 hondas have 3 plugs (that plug into the ecu), yeah well a Y4 only has 2 plugs. 2 injectors on each wire, so there are only 2 injector wires. The y4s dizzy is also alot different compared to the others aswell. You also have to change the throttle body as on the Y4, the IACV is attached to the actual throttle body, whereas most D-series & b-series have there IACV mounted on the back of the intake manifold, so your also going to have to change the IM, & all this is just to make the hondata run. Hondata is just a chipped OBD1 ecu with a hondata chip, & all the stuff i mentioned above is to convert you to OBD1. That & you also need an EK1>OBD1 conversion wiring harness from the good blokes at edge auto.

    I was going to suggest staying with the greddy & VAFC, but seeing as youve got a built bottom end & not just rocking a stock block setup, yeah id go with full standalone engine management. Link have just bought out a new ecu called the atom i believe, nicely priced aswell. also try adaptronic & a few others. This way you wont have to change dizzies, injector wires, IACV, throttle body & so on, but you have to make sure the ecu you get can read a optical sensor dizzy, cause thats what the Y4 is.

    Turbo yeah as the other guys have suggested i too would go with a GT28, nice balance between driveability & performance, you should see boost in the mid 3000rpm range.

    I have seen most of the turbo D gurus run with 3" exhaust. I was going to go with a 3" for mine, but press bent to keep costs down. So the bends where its been reduced in size, on a 3" system, should be about 2.5". But your planning to run 15psi, & afterall its already a forged bottom end, id going with a 3" mandrel system, you never know when you may want to up the boost.

    Ive seen vitaras take alot more, than 20psi. Hell even 15psi for a daily is nuts!

    leave the head alone. Maybe, if your wallet can stretch that far, a p'n'p, & deffinatly a stage 2 cam. The guy i would see for a regrind for a Y4 is bisimoto, the stage 2.2 is a grind for D16's with forced induction. All the D guru's swear by bisi, he is a d16 engine building god....

    Hope that covers most of your questions....

  7. #7
    perfect this answers pretty much everything i need to know for now! Ill keen the research going. thanks heaps luke and vtecnique

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Melb/Syd
    Car:
    CP2 / EG5
    96-98 = 0bd2a 99-00 = obd2b

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