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Torque Steer after replacing Driveshaft?!!!
Hi everyone, yes, another issue... *sigh*
yesterday I changed my left CV shaft in my DC2 for a brand new protex one, and everything went well, except now the car is torque steering to the left. not heavily or anything, but in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears when you let go of the steering wheel even for a few seconds under about 50% acceleration the steering wheel just turns left by itself, and under heavy acceleration in 1st and 2nd you can feel the steering wheel pulling against your hand a bit. and it's always left! never turns right by itself.
when I'm in a straight line under no acceleration, or when I'm braking it seems to be pretty much straight, but when it's under acceleration it wants to turn left.
I'm pretty damn certain I did EVERYTHING right when replacing the CV shaft (it was the first time I've attempted it though) and I got a wheel alignment today but still torque steering.
I know it's normal to get a bit of torque steer in FWD's like this, but I'm pretty certain it wasn't like this before I changed the driveshaft.
The job card they gave me after the wheel alignment said that my front camber was 1.1º negative on the left and 0.9º negative on the right, this is most likely because it's on N+ coilovers and the difference in left/right camber is so minor it shouldn't matter right?
Car is equipped with:
BuddyClub N+
Xforce 4-2-1 Headers, High flow cat, 2.25" Cat-back
17" Wheels
But bare in mind this has only seemed to happen after putting in the new CV shaft!
I know it's not really bad torque steer so it's not a massive problem, but it's bugging me.
Please Help?
-ZAMMIN-
"I know who you are, and I know if I make a formal complaint Mr. Benjamin will have to roll over and give me all your details" - Integra-GSi 19/11/2015
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Torque steer is when there is an unequal length and weight of the drivesharts.
How much of a weight difference is there between the Protex brand and the one you replaced?
We're doing it for the children.
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oh jeez good question... there's no weight listing but it is the right one for the car. would replacing the other side with one of the same brand fix this?
-ZAMMIN-
"I know who you are, and I know if I make a formal complaint Mr. Benjamin will have to roll over and give me all your details" - Integra-GSi 19/11/2015
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Originally Posted by Super-DA9
oh jeez good question... there's no weight listing but it is the right one for the car. would replacing the other side with one of the same brand fix this?
How much did that set you back? If it is a relatively cheap part, I'd suggest you change it, even if just for piece of mind?
I know in my car I generally have a tad bit of torque steer, but it's barely noticeable.
I understand your concern though, especially as it has only just started happening. Best bet would be just to replace your right hand side drive shaft with one as the same on the left, then let us know if that solves the problem
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Originally Posted by newpaddy3
Torque steer is when there is an unequal length and weight of the drivesharts.
Nonsense; besides, DC2 driveshafts are symmetrical left and right.
Longitudinal forces at the contact patch cause a torque around the steering axis. The distance of this lever arm is called the scrub radius. This results in a force on the tie-rod. In a perfect world, both tyres will receive the same drive force and will return equal and opposite forces to the steering rack summing to zero.
In the real world, drive torque isn't always equal to each tyre and the scrub radius is certainly not equal after 10 years of bushing abuse.
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Originally Posted by string
In the real world, drive torque isn't always equal to each tyre and the scrub radius is certainly not equal after 10 years of bushing abuse.
even so, the fact that it only just started happening after changing the CV shaft suggests that it might be to do with the CV shaft..
-ZAMMIN-
"I know who you are, and I know if I make a formal complaint Mr. Benjamin will have to roll over and give me all your details" - Integra-GSi 19/11/2015
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Originally Posted by Super-DA9
even so, the fact that it only just started happening after changing the CV shaft suggests that it might be to do with the CV shaft..
Or you didn't re-assemble everything in an identical fashion. Every millimetre counts.
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yeah i agree, every little bit counts. but i made sure i put everything back together right, i triple checked everything before lowering the car back onto the ground, and if there was something i had out of alignment they would have fixed it in the wheel alignment today. which is why it's a bit confusing...
-ZAMMIN-
"I know who you are, and I know if I make a formal complaint Mr. Benjamin will have to roll over and give me all your details" - Integra-GSi 19/11/2015
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if it isnt to costly, id replace the right one aswell like others have suggested.
Originally Posted by string
Nonsense; besides, DC2 driveshafts are symmetrical left and right.
Longitudinal forces at the contact patch cause a torque around the steering axis. The distance of this lever arm is called the scrub radius. This results in a force on the tie-rod. In a perfect world, both tyres will receive the same drive force and will return equal and opposite forces to the steering rack summing to zero.
In the real world, drive torque isn't always equal to each tyre and the scrub radius is certainly not equal after 10 years of bushing abuse.
afaik the lhs has an intermediate shaft before the inner cv joint, which would make it torque steer slightly to the left regardless.
some kids garage
A true car enthusiast appreciates the time, effort and money put into ANY sort of car, modified in ANY sort of style, whether they may like it or not.
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Originally Posted by Lukey
afaik the lhs has an intermediate shaft before the inner cv joint, which would make it torque steer slightly to the left regardless.
Why?
And don't give me some rubbish about it "winding up" like all the other bullshit websites on the internet.
Not attacking, I just don't buy the myth that gets repeated over and over and over.
Last edited by string; 07-10-2010 at 09:35 PM.
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Originally Posted by Super-DA9
yeah i agree, every little bit counts. but i made sure i put everything back together right, i triple checked everything before lowering the car back onto the ground, and if there was something i had out of alignment they would have fixed it in the wheel alignment today. which is why it's a bit confusing...
The only thing they do in a wheel alignment is adjust the tie-rods. Take the inner LCA bushing as an example. The bolt which goes through the sleeve has a little bit of wiggle room. That wiggle room can make all the difference (exaggeration alert) and an alignment will do jack shit to fix it.
Symmetrical static alignment specs is one thing but in no way implies exactly symmetrical geometry.
When did you tighten the bushings? Full droop? Ride height? Half-way?
Last edited by string; 07-10-2010 at 09:53 PM.
Reason: important stuff bolded
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Originally Posted by string
Why?
And don't give me some rubbish about it "winding up" like all the other bullshit websites on the internet.
fwd's will always torque steer to the side which has a longer shaft?
and what do you mean 'winding up'??
some kids garage
A true car enthusiast appreciates the time, effort and money put into ANY sort of car, modified in ANY sort of style, whether they may like it or not.
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