brake pads?

[jks24]

yea good advice about the rotors

Im leaning towards bendix an green stuff, as iev read few good stuff about em, either way, they both would perform way better than oem Lol

Any point in getting slotted rotors, or just stick to machined oem disc?

A mate of mine uses green stuff, he said he is happy with them. My rears are 95% worn so I will be changing them soon. Still deciding what pads to get though. Spend the most money on the front and get slotted rotors for there, thats what im going to do eventually anyways.

Your OEM discs might not need machining, check them

[markismaximus]

Your OEM discs might not need machining, check them

its good practice to machine discs whenever the pads are changed, the new pad material needs to transfer onto the rotor. If they aren't machined the old pad material can prevent new pad material transfer

[mocchi]

its good practice to machine discs whenever the pads are changed, the new pad material needs to transfer onto the rotor. If they aren't machined the old pad material can contaminate the rotor

did you mean old pad material on rotor can contaminate new pad?

[markismaximus]

did you mean old pad material on rotor can contaminate new pad?

sought of, I've edited the above post. old pad material more-so prevents the new pad material from transfering onto the rotor, basically makes bedding-in the pads harder

[jdm_b16a]

sought of, I've edited the above post. old pad material more-so prevents the new pad material from transfering onto the rotor, basically makes bedding-in the pads harder

Mark,

I'm not convinced that that's the case. It's also troublesome and time consuming, and the costs add up, to get the discs machined every time you swap pads. I did a whole year (6 meetings, one qualifying and three races per meeting) on a set of Bendix Ultimates with little or no retardation in stopping power that I noticed, and I drove the car at its limit. The brakes were shot at the end but that's pretty good life on an inexpensive set of pads (front and back but only the front were gonnas!)

Do you have a reference for this advice - I'm not questioning your wisdom just would be nice to read some more on this proposition.

In any case, I always stick to Bendix - they work, and are easily purchased at places like SCA or REPCO for a reasonable price.

Peter

[mocchi]

sought of, I've edited the above post. old pad material more-so prevents the new pad material from transfering onto the rotor, basically makes bedding-in the pads harder

yeah i think thats what i read too about pad bed in procedure on stop-tech tech article.
however, for a daily driver i personally wouldnt bother for my car. haha.

here we go. faq #6
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinfaq.shtml

[markismaximus]

Mark,

I'm not convinced that that's the case. It's also troublesome and time consuming, and the costs add up, to get the discs machined every time you swap pads. I did a whole year (6 meetings, one qualifying and three races per meeting) on a set of Bendix Ultimates with little or no retardation in stopping power that I noticed, and I drove the car at its limit. The brakes were shot at the end but that's pretty good life on an inexpensive set of pads (front and back but only the front were gonnas!)

Do you have a reference for this advice - I'm not questioning your wisdom just would be nice to read some more on this proposition.

In any case, I always stick to Bendix - they work, and are easily purchased at places like SCA or REPCO for a reasonable price.

Peter

Hey Peter, here are some reference docs I could easily find

http://www.ebcbrakes.com.au/index.ph...nd-rotors.html

http://www.ebcbrakes.com.au/index.ph...ads-tb-10.html

It makes complete sense for the rotor to be machined when changing to a different pad material in my head. The pad material is microscopically imbedded in the rotor surface, which helps create the friction between the two. If the rotor surface is "clogged" with old pad material how can the new pad material transfer onto the rotor.

I'm not saying you won't be able to stop, just saying the pads may not be functioning at 100%

[Alvis]

yea good advice about the rotors

Im leaning towards bendix an green stuff, as iev read few good stuff about em, either way, they both would perform way better than oem Lol

Any point in getting slotted rotors, or just stick to machined oem disc?

Back to the original question from mugen_ctr - this website has some good prices, probably where I'll be getting my new Bendix Ultimates:

http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/clutc...disc-pads.html


This thread I started below earlier in the year also might have some good info for you:

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...d-Brake-Rotors

[markismaximus]

http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/clutc...disc-pads.html

I've bought stuff from eziauto before. Have pretty good prices, but often they don't have stock of what you order....

[Alvis]

good to know; and if they can order it in at same price it would be ok, i guess it just depends how quick you need the parts

but just run a check on the bendix website for your part number:

http://www.bendix.com.au/catalogue?m...da&model=Civic

[EK1.6LCIV]

The ultimates with stood a good 40 laps of QRs national circuit in my buddies ek hatch with a b18c, brakes were just ek4 fronts and cxi rear drums. Smoke began to form after 30 laps or so, very good value braking, may post a video later from the weekend

remember to not let the car sit when this happens, drive a few kilometers at slow speeds to cool them down so they don't break down other components

[MRK20CRX]

I'd save up a bit more and get some P-MU bestop pads, they bite crazy and the stopping power is amazing