Cammed Motors Specs + DYNO Graph Mandatory

[migoreng]

Adrian.

My H22A4 almost hits 101 with very mild mods. K24 above did 10kw more. Any idea?
It was humid and rain sprinkled quite a bit that day. Would that have made a difference?

Engine - H22A4
Displacement - 2.2
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - stock
VTEC X-Over - 4200
Gearbox - stock
I/H/E - K&N Panel filter, removed intake resonator, stock header, hi flow cat, Tanabe Medalion Touring catback.
ECU - Apexi AFC Neo

[dougie_504]

Isn't 100kw for a H22A kind of weak? No offence intended. But isn't is about 150kw at the fly? Though you would expect something like 120 +/- atw?

[TODA AU]

Adrian.

My H22A4 almost hits 101 with very mild mods. K24 above did 10kw more. Any idea?
It was humid and rain sprinkled quite a bit that day. Would that have made a difference?

K24's tend to make more power than H22A's without even trying.
Your car was run @ 48% humidity (per weather staition data) which would have given a slight positive correction but that aside, you're not camparing apples & apples. 2.2L vs 2.4L & Vtec vs iVtec etc

Isn't 100kw for a H22A kind of weak? No offence intended. But isn't is about 150kw at the fly? Though you would expect something like 120 +/- atw?

100kw is pretty normal for an H22A. In stock trim or near stock (I/H/E) they're really not particularly powerful or impressive.
Moreover, to be honest, I've never seen one in my life that made me go - Wow!
Seen plenty than made me so oh... oh dear... (Even some built ones) Never wow! though.
So though they have a mythical rep, in reality, they are kinda weak.

[Benson]

Branden h2b type S motor is making just a little over 150kw with simple bolt-ons. A normal h22a with bolt-on's made close to 135kw. I wouldn't say they are weak motor.

Built h22a? Cant really comment, but the yanks seem to have great success with them. I guess if built right with the right parts, it can be a killer motor.

[GSi_PSi]

only 100kw and 110kw for h22a and k24? son i am disappoint

[TODA AU]

Branden h2b type S motor is making just a little over 150kw with simple bolt-ons. A normal h22a with bolt-on's made close to 135kw. I wouldn't say they are weak motor.
Built h22a? Cant really comment, but the yanks seem to have great success with them. I guess if built right with the right parts, it can be a killer motor.

Actually, in standard form I would say they are quite pissweak.
It's no secret in standard or near standard form for the capacity, they are a feeble engine.
I agree if built right, yes, they do have considerable potential & fair enough if your mates one has grunt, most don't.

only 100kw and 110kw for h22a and k24? son i am disappoint

LOL, no that'd come after you purchased one based on the online myths of high output.

[Benson]

Well yes, if you talk about completely standard form (no bolt-ons), most motor do only make around 100kw's. Once you open them up with the right bolt-ons with the right tune, they can make 30% more power

[migoreng]

K24's tend to make more power than H22A's without even trying.
Your car was run @ 48% humidity (per weather staition data) which would have given a slight positive correction but that aside, you're not camparing apples & apples. 2.2L vs 2.4L & Vtec vs iVtec etc

Thanks Adian...So is there an ideal humidity %? Because of the positive correction (more fuel added?) on that day, are you saying If I run my car on a better day the dyno should show more power? And my AFR graph should be closer to 13?

Can you tell me the difference between my old dyno graph from 2 years ago and my current one? The day wasn't too warm. I say about 5-6 degrees more than when I visiited your work shop 2 months ago.
I ran 106.5KW and my car was 100% stock. In case you people are interested here's a list of Preludes (look at the Corolla Sportivos. They have 141kw? at the fly vs 143kw? for h22a4).

Any comments?


Got the list from Ozmazda forum.

Isn't 100kw for a H22A kind of weak? No offence intended. But isn't is about 150kw at the fly? Though you would expect something like 120 +/- atw?

Yes I was expecting 110kw after tune but maybe the dyno was reading low for some reason.
H22A4 has 143kw at the fly. Apparently 99+ H22Z engineshave 147 because of a slight header modification?
The car still pulls strong. 0-100kph in 8 seconds flat without trying hard (mid 7s possible if I can actually do a good launch).

[TODA AU]

Thanks Adian...So is there an ideal humidity %? Because of the positive correction (more fuel added?) on that day, are you saying If I run my car on a better day the dyno should show more power? And my AFR graph should be closer to 13?

Can you tell me the difference between my old dyno graph from 2 years ago and my current one? The day wasn't too warm. I say about 5-6 degrees more than when I visiited your work shop 2 months ago.
I ran 106.5KW and my car was 100% stock. In case you people are interested here's a list of Preludes (look at the Corolla Sportivos. They have 141kw? at the fly vs 143kw? for h22a4).

Any comments?


Got the list from Ozmazda forum.

Yes I was expecting 110kw after tune but maybe the dyno was reading low for some reason.
H22A4 has 143kw at the fly. Apparently 99+ H22Z engineshave 147 because of a slight header modification?
The car still pulls strong. 0-100kph in 8 seconds flat without trying hard (mid 7s possible if I can actually do a good launch).

The correction factor is an SAE corretion to bring the power output value back to a standard day.
What you got is what you got, the dyno is just a tool used for tuning to see that you're moving forward. Some read higher than others but are generally ball park similar as are your runs. Though you may well have had 106kw @ SAS, but one our dyno your car pulled around 94kw before the tune. After tuning you got 100kw & that's about right. Re the correction factor: This may allow you to show a higher reading on the dyno & give to a happy reading but the car won't actually make any more power. What it's got is what it's got.
It also won't affect your AFR's. You can see from your previous sheet to your current one that the AFR's before tuning are the same regardless of output.
As you can see from the dyno day results, your car is putting down the average power for a H22A. Some are better, some are worse. Had the dyno day been held on our dyno, chances are the outputs would be 10kw less (based on your results). Numbers aside, the car is going better now & has 5~6kw more in the peak power & around 10kw @ 5000rpm. this will translate into faster smoother driving. Whether 1 dyno reads higher or not doesn't really matter but the trends are the same.

[migoreng]

As you can see from the dyno day results, your car is putting down the average power for a H22A. Some are better, some are worse. Had the dyno day been held on our dyno, chances are the outputs would be 10kw less (based on your results). Numbers aside, the car is going better now & has 5~6kw more in the peak power & around 10kw @ 5000rpm. this will translate into faster smoother driving. Whether 1 dyno reads higher or not doesn't really matter but the trends are the same.

Thanks for the explanation!

When I ran the 106 at SAS I did not have any I/H/E mods. So I ran ~94kw before tune on your dyno but I had a K&N panel filter, hi flow cat and catback exhaust. What if my engine was still stock? Would I have ran a few kw less, say 90kw atw?

So what you're saying, if I went back to SAS then I would most likely run ~115kw atw?

Do I/H/E mods generally make a difference on Honda engines or is a tune required to gain power? I know JDMYard or something claims ~5kw gain in the top end from an Injen CAI alone.

Anyway, i'm not too fussed about the numbers....thanks for the tune Adrian. Very quick/efficient and professional My car definately pulls harder after 3000rpm...

If there is a dyno day somewhere else in the future I may take my car for a run to see if there is a difference.

[TODA AU]

Thanks for the explanation!

When I ran the 106 at SAS I did not have any I/H/E mods. So I ran ~94kw before tune on your dyno but I had a K&N panel filter, hi flow cat and catback exhaust. What if my engine was still stock? Would I have ran a few kw less, say 90kw atw?

Do I/H/E mods generally make a difference on Honda engines or is a tune required to gain power? I know JDMYard or something claims ~5kw gain in the top end from an Injen CAI alone.

Generally you will see a gain with I/H/E without tuning (depending on the quality of the parts) & a further 5kw top end & 10kw-ish in the mid range as yours did.
So yes, yours would likley have put down 90ish in standard form on our dyno.
& Injen's do offer a gain over the std intake off the bat without tuning.

[mooks145]

i just tune ek b18c7 with mugen intake, toda header,adjustable fuel reg, 2.5in cat and 2.5 exh. ecu is s300 and i only got 107kw. is there something wrong with my engine. got the compersion test its ok 250. can someone give me advice. thanks