coolant issue, need quick answer please.

[Bludger]

LOL...Vague memories... Sorry, I tune a lot of cars (It's easier to remember with faces & names rather than internet nic names - I never remember who is who through that)
If they're new, I'm barking up the wrong tree...
If they're re-used, there is a chance there is seepage past the head gasket.
The magic blue liquid will tell the story.
& the fix could be a simple as swapping out 1 head bolt at a time & replacing it with a new one & a magic tablet for insurance

Magic tablet (powder) - http://www.seallock.com.au/seal_tabs.html
Magic Liquid - http://www.vektools.com.au/lisle-com...or-p-2725.html

If I'm wrong on that,
Pressure test the cooling system & confirm there are no leaks.
If no leaks, you may have an air bubble in the head/engine & you need to burp it.
You can do the with a cut down 1.25L Coke bottle, a roll of electrical tape & a bottle of water.
A slight slope helps too.
Park the car nose up, cut the bottom out of the coke bottle, tap up the cap end with elsectrcal tap to increase the diameter to fit in the radiator neck.
Fit & fill with water well above radiator height, (approx 5cm from full)
Hold in place & start car(run)
Be sure to have the heater on too so the water flows through the heater core too.

May I please get a bit of your time and others as well.

Lets just say I pressure tested the system and there is a small leak.

Assuming it is the head gasket, I would like to replace it myself.

I've replaced a head gasket on a mediocre Colt engine and also a 6 cylinder Cressida engine before.
They were back in the day, didn't really matter if they blew up in the end.
This B18c has had a lot of money spent on it and I would like it done right by taking all the right steps.

I'll ask the person who assembled the engine, if the head studs were re-used, I'll replace them with ARP items.
If the head was secured with ARP head studs, can I re-use the ARP head studs?

After I take off the head, does it need resurfacing before being installed again?
I've never resurfaced heads before, just always put them back on. Want this done right.

Anything else that I have left out or is it just take head off, new gasket and head back on...... ????

Any information is appreciated.

Thanks

[TODA AU]

The magic blue liquid will tell the story.
& the fix could be a simple as swapping out 1 head bolt at a time & replacing it with a new one & a magic tablet for insurance

Magic tablet (powder) - http://www.seallock.com.au/seal_tabs.html
Magic Liquid - http://www.vektools.com.au/lisle-com...or-p-2725.html

May I please get a bit of your time and others as well.

Lets just say I pressure tested the system and there is a small leak.

Assuming it is the head gasket, I would like to replace it myself.

I've replaced a head gasket on a mediocre Colt engine and also a 6 cylinder Cressida engine before.
They were back in the day, didn't really matter if they blew up in the end.
This B18c has had a lot of money spent on it and I would like it done right by taking all the right steps.

I'll ask the person who assembled the engine, if the head studs were re-used, I'll replace them with ARP items.
If the head was secured with ARP head studs, can I re-use the ARP head studs?

After I take off the head, does it need resurfacing before being installed again?
I've never resurfaced heads before, just always put them back on. Want this done right.

Anything else that I have left out or is it just take head off, new gasket and head back on...... ????

Any information is appreciated.

Thanks

Before you throw in the towel on the head gasket, you need to confirm it is the issue & not just a small leak somewhere in the cooling system. (Seeping joint, pin-hole in a hose etc)
As above, use the magic blue liquid to confirm the G/K is the issue.
If it is, befoe you pull the head, seriously, try what I said & change the bolts 1 at a time & add a seal tab.
If that fails, then look at pulling the head .
To do the job righ the head should be serviced. (Not all head services are equal either)
Stone the deck of the block as a minimum & use all new gaskets.
ARP studs should be checked for length before re-use, but realisticly it's not a bit expence to use new std head bolts or ARP studs. To be frank, there's nothing wrong with the OEM head bolt when new.

Re leak...
Did you see where the leak is or is it an asumption it's the head gasket casue the source of the leak couldn't be located?