Thinking of buying a DC2R

[skitskit]

As stated above I am strongly thinking of purchasing a dc2r
BUT
I am on my red p's (nearly)
Just some quick questions
Are new conrods, pistons, pulleys etc require a mod plate?
Does removal of items like backseat etc require a mod plate?
Before you chop me up saying just search the net, I have and could not get a definitive answer
If you could get specific i would appreciate it
And yes i know I am a p plater thinking of getting a ITR, but I am simply addicted to beautiful peices of engineering, whenever i go past a slightly modified ride I immediately evaluate it in detail
Thanks Ben

[jords]

No engineering cert. req'd for back seat removal etc.

What ever you do buy one that is well kept, you may pay a little more today but it will be well worth it over time.

[skitskit]

I know that even if it does, its a different mod code if it needs one, there are only 2 codes that ARE NOT allowed
The main question was just above that, the conrods, pistons etc part

[jords]

what are you talking about?

unless you are going to do a serious bottom end build (which is gonna need headwork + endless amount of other bits) you will be ok, it all depends on the % increase of displacement. If your only 16 and are yet to get your P's I suggest just by a reasonably stock car and just learn how to drive, before you get too excited.

BTW what state are you in? You may wanna check with your RTA

[skitskit]

So a mod plate is only needed an there is an increase in displacement %? Im asking because the cheapest Dc2r in QLD ($16000) has new pistons, conrods and pulleys and I am curious if I am allowed to drive it or if i should move along (legally) I have driven a dc2r before and LOVED it.
Also mate, just cause someone does not have his/her p plates, does that make them 16? I am 20. Why not get the car you love? Buying a shit box car would only make me more angry knowing i could have got the car i would easily have on open's.
Im in Queensland and I have checked and did not get a good asnwer....

[jords]

I'll say it again, it will be fine you don't need a mod plate.

If you are hesitant because it has a had new pistons, rods etc installed then don't buy it.

Have you asked the seller why it has been re-built? or if it is stock pistons/rods or if they are larger pistons or forged??

[mugen_ctr]

man speaks the truth... stick to cars that have good history an background

[EVLGTR]

Excellent choice, with its cult-status DC2 Type-R's are the original and the best, respectively just like the NSX-R and the EK Civic Type R.
Dont get anything thats been rebuilt or refurbished or even modified to an extent. Stock DC2R is the best first choice for a p-plater like you, its hard to find a good stock these days as most owners thrash the car and commonly replace the clutch and/or the gearbox.
Dont go past a slight modification such as suspension setup/extra chassis rigidity...anything beyond that like engine/drivetrain/intake/exhaust mods, give it a miss (no offence to those have modded their DC2R's though *peace*)

Take it from my experience of having a bone stock DC2R for almost 10 years of joy (still running strong) and never had to replace anything, and i mean ANYTHING major, lol

[nugget]

Excellent choice, with its cult-status DC2 Type-R's are the original and the best, respectively just like the NSX-R and the EK Civic Type R.
Dont get anything thats been rebuilt or refurbished or even modified to an extent. Stock DC2R is the best first choice for a p-plater like you, its hard to find a good stock these days as most owners thrash the car and commonly replace the clutch and/or the gearbox.
Dont go past a slight modification such as suspension setup/extra chassis rigidity...anything beyond that like engine/drivetrain/intake/exhaust mods, give it a miss (no offence to those have modded their DC2R's though *peace*)

Take it from my experience of having a bone stock DC2R for almost 10 years of joy (still running strong) and never had to replace anything, and i mean ANYTHING major, lol

what is wrong with a dc2r with slight i/h/e mods?
i would like to know your reason for staying away from cars with such mods...

[mugen_ctr]

cause one would think it would be thrashed with mods, theres only one reason ppl put mods like that on, an thats to make it faster

If the cars had a rebuild, than u really gotta ask urself, why rebuild it... an who built it, receipts an warranty, as well as who tuned etc etc

[macoman69]

It is illegal to have your back seats removed from you car in QLD.
The only way to get around this is to register your car as a 2 seater which requires a mod plate.

[skitskit]

Jords - I have sent the guy an email the other night inquiring about it, but forgot to ask if he has receipts and who did it
EVLGTR - Yeh I have been thinking about that, the one i drove was completely stock and sounded like a monster
Mugen - I plan on doing so and finding good history because i know there are plenty of fake type r's out there

Here is a link to the one i was talking about before
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/...1591&silo=1011

If that one proves unreliable I have spotted two more for around that price range
Both are white, one is completely bone stock (same as stated before price), the other is slightly modded with only suspension, audio and upgraded clutch (around 1grand higher than above)

The only mods i would do to it on P plates is an Injen CAI, Hondata chip, Full Mugen twinloop exhaust
Generally, if i bought the completely stock one, and had around 3-4G's to spend on mods, what would you personally do?
Also what does the car sound like completely stock, i can find youtube clips?