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  1. #25
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Redbank QLD
    Car:
    R34GTR,EF8 K20A
    Only the later model DC2R's came out with the 4.7 ratio?

    DC2R boxes are like gold lol!

    I just might pull apart my box and get a hold of a R diff and see what fits...

    Car doesn't start now, starter motor shagged so I gotta pull it out and inspect. Must be telling me something lol!

    Also head stud kit part number is 208-4601. I guess I'll find out if it works....
    Last edited by ZCroofrack; 20-08-2009 at 12:35 AM.

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EP3R>AH>EK>DC2
    Its a sign from the Honda Gods...

    Do it already
    SPAMMAPS
    Carburettor|Nation

    that mikey G guy is the biggest shit talker ive ever met..
    in the space of 15minutes he sold two sets of wheels. claims a guy under the username DNT-CRY bought them!

  3. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by ZCroofrack View Post
    Also head stud kit part number is 208-4601. I guess I'll find out if it works....
    that's the spirit!

    but consider using the 4306's
    B20VTEC - since 2002

  4. #28
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Redbank QLD
    Car:
    R34GTR,EF8 K20A

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by tinkerbell View Post
    that's the spirit!

    but consider using the 4306's
    Doh!!

    Looks like I might have to buy some 4306's after doing some more reading on other forums...

    Here's one of the things I read too.
    http://www.modified.com/tech/0411scc...ine/index.html

    Pulled out starter this morning inspected and fixed it. It had been replaced before I had it. The solenoid contacts were worn so no power to electric motor. Piece of copper and some soldering fixed it good as new!

  5. #29
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EG3
    im seeing if im inspired to do this conversion on my DA9 aswell or just drop a whole B16A in it. Just kinda iffy on the drilling the hole part.

  6. #30
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Redbank QLD
    Car:
    R34GTR,EF8 K20A
    My lil bro owns the car now, and he has driven it (thrashed it) for 9months, but it's back down in my shed to get a VTEC conversion woot!

    Pulled the engine/gearbox out today and used a Karcher to blast all of the oil all over the engine and engine bay from all the oil leaks! All the engine mounts are shot so they will needreplacing too.

    Went to Toda yesterday to sort out the ECU with a base map, so I'm glad that's sorted, thanks Adrian!

    More parts have been ordered in such as, timing belt type R, water pump Type R, oil pump, head studs, spark plugs, gasket kit, bearings.

    Getting headers, adjustable cam gears, and hopefully Type R throttle body too. Engine will be on a stand once I get some long bolts to mount the bloody thing! then I can start pulling it apart and checking the innards! Last engine I built was an R32GTR with an RB26DETT with forged innards etc, ran 480RWHP for 2 years then sold it, and a 1litre 3cyl turbo charade engine with a T25 lol, so I have the gear and experience to build this baby up!
    Last edited by ZCroofrack; 13-01-2011 at 09:16 PM. Reason: Spelling

  7. #31
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Redbank QLD
    Car:
    R34GTR,EF8 K20A
    Okay, engine stripped down to bare block and inspected. Deglazed bores, and there were still hone marks evident, gotta love honda engines!

    Rods and P30 pistons taken to engine reco place to get fitted and ARP rod bolts fitted and big ends resized/checked.

    Everything else has come in, just waiting for the heavy duty clutch kit. Then collect it all and pay for it!

    So parts ordered were:

    clutch kit
    water pump 22T
    B18C timing belt
    tensioner
    spark plugs
    leads
    VRS gasket kits for head and block= $$$
    ACL bearings

    Just running the GSR cams and throttle body, pretty much out of money now, but some performance cams would be nice!
    Will look funny when it revs into the DA9 tacho red zone as tacho only shows to 8000RPM and redline starts at 6500RPM!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by ZCroofrack; 12-01-2011 at 04:08 PM.

  8. #32
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    legtec @2psi
    looking good, will make good power


  9. #33
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Redbank QLD
    Car:
    R34GTR,EF8 K20A
    Hope so! Thanks.

    Got all the gear today as well as a bolt stretch gauge for the rod bolts. ARP recommends .0053-.0057 thou stretch, so I went with .0055. Measured up all bearing oil clearances, ring end gaps etc, and all is good and within factory specs. No rags used in assembly, just paper towel!

    Bottom end is all done and sump is fitted, now it's all the external stuff on the block as well as the head to sort out and fit up.

  10. #34
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Redbank QLD
    Car:
    R34GTR,EF8 K20A
    Drilled head to suit dowels, modded B18A head gasket and fitted head studs, head and nuts to 80FT/LBs. fitted up adjustable cam gears, seals, timing belt, water pump etc.

    Then fitted up breather box, intake manifold and oil feed line for VTEC oil feed. Got up to fitting the fuel rail and found out that you cannot re-use the B18A fuel rail and fuel reg. Rail bolts up and that as far as you can go, short of modding it to an end mounted fuel reg, and blocking off the original mount. I put up a wanted to buy instead!!! Pretty sure the VTI R and GSR intake manifolds are the same.

  11. #35
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Redbank QLD
    Car:
    R34GTR,EF8 K20A
    Managed to buy a golden eagle pro series fuel rail and stock regulator (thanks Benson), and fitted it up along with a short length of 8mm EFI fuel hose so it still has a banjo fitting to the fuel filter.
    De-pinned both OBD0 and the new OBD1 dizzy to use the OBD0 connectors and fitted leads.

    Today was spent looking for a radiator hose adapter that bolts to the head, as the PR4 and PR3 one's don't fit. Also today, the front cross member was removed, modded and headers fitted while it was off, then put back on. Nearly complete! Just have to:
    Get hose adapter fitting
    lengthen wiring to air temp sensor
    reconnect rack to steering wheel
    feed VTEC wiring through firewall and wire up
    fit radiator
    fill up fluids
    sort out exhaust and o2 sensor
    run it in and tune

  12. #36
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Redbank QLD
    Car:
    R34GTR,EF8 K20A
    Wiring done, and 02 sensor, may need one or two other things hooked up or fixed as engine light comes on after starting it.

    Cranked it over with no spark and fuel till oil pressure came up, then fired it up straight out the headers, far out it's loud! So engine runs, just need that damn radiator hose adapter part.

    Mig welded the exhaust up and bought a flange to suit the outlet of the header and welded that up too. So close!

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